The two areas Jefferson County Open Space intends to close in Clear Creek Canyon, shown on the attached maps, encompass the active eagle nests. If the Clear Creek eagles continue to nest in the active nests, these areas will remain closed from February 1 through July 31. If the eagles choose different nesting sites, the closures will be adjusted accordingly to protect those eagles during their breeding season.
Currently, rock climbing areas that fall inside of the seasonal raptor closures include:
Blonde Formation Bumbling Stock Evil Area Ghost Crag Highlander Skinny Legs Stumbling Block Tetanus Garden Fault Caves
Description
Porn Queen sits directly above Reefer Madness and is best done as an extension to that route (14 bolts). Follow seven bolts up overhanging rock above the anchor on Reefer Madness with a few moves in the 5.11 range then move right and up to the anchors after the climbing eases off a bit. The anchor is about 95 feet off the ground, and it is a pain to clean the route on rappel or while lowering. Watch out for some stinky bird poop above the Reefer Madness anchor.
[Hide Photo] The 4th bolt was moved 4" lower into better rock. The pic was taken before old bolt was removed.
[Hide Photo] The condition of the rock bolt 4 is currently placed in. My partner ripped off a part of the same rock the bolt is drilled into - the overall rock quality here seems suspect. There's less than a ha…
[Hide Comment] Hey, this pitch isn't too bad at all. In fact, it was fun. Very juggy and exposed climbing. It's the way I intend to do Reefer Madness from now on. I'm not going to quibble about ratings, but if you can climb Reefer Madness smoothly, then there is nothing on Porn Queen that should stop you from giving it a go. The bird crap isn't on the actual holds, at least when I did it and you get past that part after two or three moves.
May 1, 2008
[Hide Comment] As an extension, it doesn't so much flow. The ledgy nature was awkward at times. But the cllimbing is reasonable in grade to the crux of Reefer Madness, and it was nice to top out.
A 70 will let you rappel all the way to the base, to a stance 8 ft up, if not quite to the dirt.
Aug 1, 2008
[Hide Comment] A nice extension to Reefer Madness if you are comfortable at the grade. A nice long pitch. Knots and a 70m will get you to the ground fine. It's not much harder than Reefer Madness in my opinion... but who knows? Great, long warm-up!
May 31, 2020
[Hide Comment] Today my partner ripped a brick-sized hold off to the immediate left of the 4th bolt (almost 100% sure it's the 4th). It's like the left half of the block the bolt was in just fell off which has nearly exposed the left side of the expansion bolt, I want to say there is probably less than half a centimeter or so of rock between air and bolt. Maybe don't clip it and rip more rock on a fall? With that said, you can easily skip this bolt with a little runout and with what seems to be a safe fall if you blew it.
Aug 15, 2022
[Hide Comment] The 4th bolt was replaced with hardware from BCC. Thanks, Alex Ruff, for helping. The new bolt is now about 4” lower to be in solid rock.
Sep 2, 2022
Avg: 2.4 from 47
votes
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures
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Highlands Ranch CO
Boulder, CO
A 70 will let you rappel all the way to the base, to a stance 8 ft up, if not quite to the dirt. Aug 1, 2008
Golden, CO
Golden, CO
Pittsburgh
Denver, CO