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Routes in Ruckman Cave
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A Spy From the Country of Rainmen S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Antichamber S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Beer Run S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Bloody Corner S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Bolt Action S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Bovine Impact S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Call the Cops S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Choss Family Robinson S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Cooch S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Don't Point That Thing At Me (Head Full of Lead extension) S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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Extended Family S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Firearms S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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First Steps S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Grades of Wrath (submitted as Wreaths of Wrath) S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Head Full of Lead S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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In Your Face S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Kenose Eskapa S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Kielbasa Run S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Le Frimeur S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Long Barrel S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Loose Cannon S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Nessun Dorma S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Noble Wife S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Objectivity Exchange S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Overstoker S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Pellet Gun S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Pinch Fest S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Prime Evil S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Prime the Pump S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Prime Time S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Primer S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Princess of Turandot S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Promise, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Rave Over Truth and Beauty, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Red Dawn S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Return to Sender (aka Cap-gun) S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Rolling Log, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Route S 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c |
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Shibumi S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Smoking Gun S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Street Knowledge S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Supre Guide S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Waiting For 21 S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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When the Levee Breaks S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Sport, 90 ft (27 m) |
| FA: | Jim Surette |
| Page Views: | 1,508 total · 6/month |
| Shared By: | Orphaned User on May 24, 2003 |
| Admins: | Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
This is the "escape route" from the center of the Ruckman Cave, punching out the body-length roof to climb the nice tan headwall above the uber-greasy cave. It is done as one big pitch, and ends at anchors about 50 feet over the lip of the cave in a small depression.
Begin on the central route in the cave, Bolt Action, a former 11d turned possible 12a by eroding holds, polished foot knobs, and the disappearance of a huge block. Follow this for 7 or 8 bolts to the double cold-shuts below the roof. (Skip this route's first clip so as to avoid rope drag.)
Put a long draw on one of the shuts, a double draw out on the bolt in the roof, and bust a strenous boulder problem out, and over, the lip. It helped me to climb up, clip the long draw, then climb back down below the cold-shut anchor to a kneescum rest.
Once over the lip, 5.12-type climbing on great rock leads to another cold shut anchor. Lower twice to clean your draws. If the route getting up to the roof were better, this would probably merit another star.
Begin on the central route in the cave, Bolt Action, a former 11d turned possible 12a by eroding holds, polished foot knobs, and the disappearance of a huge block. Follow this for 7 or 8 bolts to the double cold-shuts below the roof. (Skip this route's first clip so as to avoid rope drag.)
Put a long draw on one of the shuts, a double draw out on the bolt in the roof, and bust a strenous boulder problem out, and over, the lip. It helped me to climb up, clip the long draw, then climb back down below the cold-shut anchor to a kneescum rest.
Once over the lip, 5.12-type climbing on great rock leads to another cold shut anchor. Lower twice to clean your draws. If the route getting up to the roof were better, this would probably merit another star.
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