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Breakdown Dead Ahead

5.11a, Sport, 70 ft (21 m),  Avg: 3.3 from 124 votes
FA: Glenn Schuler, K . McLaughlin
Colorado > San Luis Valley > Penitente Canyon > Penitente - Inner Canyon

Description

This is the line just right of Tanks for Hueco. It shares the same start (a lieback up a black corner) and then heads up the fantastic pockets on the overhanging wall. In my opinion a more appropriate finish (in terms of difficulty) than Tanks for Hueco. Oh, the guide rates it at 11b, but it is not nearly that hard.

Protection

Quickdraws. Bolted anchor.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Not My Cross To Bear, 05/21/2005.
[Hide Photo] Not My Cross To Bear, 05/21/2005.
Glenn Schuler on F.A. of "Breakdown Dead Ahead"
[Hide Photo] Glenn Schuler on F.A. of "Breakdown Dead Ahead"
Catie finishing the line.
[Hide Photo] Catie finishing the line.
Pulling through what I think was the crux
[Hide Photo] Pulling through what I think was the crux

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Kevin McLaughlin
Colorado Springs
[Hide Comment] F.A.-Glenn Schuler,K . McLaughlin. Those holds were just so teasing..... we couldn't resist. Dec 17, 2007
Rico
Aurora, CO
  5.11a PG13
[Hide Comment] Awesome Line! Would've been four stars if it wasn't for the wet corner start. May 26, 2009
Mike Howard

[Hide Comment] Anchor Replacement, modernization: "After gaining the ledge, you are risking groundfall if you blow it climbing to the next bolt on an easy runout after that is unnecessary." Fixed 4/29/2012 with Bob D. and Tim Standing. Plan to replace SMC spinners with 28kN hangers on Anchor Replacement Weekend 5/12-13/2012. New sport anchor with chain, so please do not top rope through chains, use you draws and last climber rap. Apr 30, 2012
Wes O'Rourke
South Fork
  5.11a/b
[Hide Comment] This is a classic Penitente climb that gets over shadowed by its sister climb "Tanks". If you're looking for bigger holds and steeper climbing, this is the climb for you. Much harder than Tanks, so it felt like 5.11 a/b to me.

New ASCA Mussy hooks were installed 10-10-21. Oct 12, 2021