PRINT: Rock Climb Psycho Hose Beast, Golden

Psycho Hose Beast

5.11b, Sport, 70 ft (21 m),

Avg: 2 from 54 votes
FA: K. Trout, 1992
Colorado > Golden > Clear Creek Canyon > Monkey House

Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Please be aware of the annual raptor seasonal closures!

Raptor Closures Effective February 1-July 31

Visit: jeffco.us/open-space/news/2…

Tunnel 1 closure
For more details visit: jeffco.us/open-space/alerts…

CCC Raptor Nesting Closure 1 (MM 270, W of Tunnel 1). Photo reconfiguration: Ron Keller.

CCC Raptor Nesting Closure 2 (E of Tunnel 2). In 2016, the closure WAS lifted June 9 for ONLY the 2016 season, per Eric Krause, JeffCo OS Ranger. Photo reconfiguration: Ron Keller.

The two areas Jefferson County Open Space intends to close in Clear Creek Canyon, shown on the attached maps, encompass the active eagle nests. If the Clear Creek eagles continue to nest in the active nests, these areas will remain closed from February 1 through July 31. If the eagles choose different nesting sites, the closures will be adjusted accordingly to protect those eagles during their breeding season.

Currently, rock climbing areas that fall inside of the seasonal raptor closures include:

Blonde Formation
Bumbling Stock
Evil Area
Ghost Crag
Highlander
Skinny Legs
Stumbling Block
Tetanus Garden
Fault Caves

Description

This is a nice little line on the left third of the Wall of the Nineties just right of Punishment for Shoplifting (PFS). It feels less difficult than PFS once you know where the holds are. There is an interesting rest ledge below the top/crux. 5.11a/b is the given rating from Mark's guide and, for Clear Creek, it feels right if you try to onsight. It is probably 5.9 for those Eldo-wizards. I wonder why the name....

Ignore this info if you want an onsight flash:

Funky move between bolts 1 & 2. Decent upper face moves. Rest ledge reminiscent of the rest in that video (Masters of Stone?) of Piana on a climb at Hueco. Weird crux at 10th bolt. Such a good rest but a bit awkward to move past. Hard to see from below the overhang. To get out and beyond the roof, reach up for a left side pinch, get feet up, then long reach to a flat edge. Trust it....

Protection

10 QDs + slings for the anchors. Per Robyn Van Zile: there are rings at the top now.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Heading toward the crux on Psycho Hose Beast.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Jeffrey Arthur
Westminster, CO

I stayed away from this for sometime because of the lack of guidebook and partner recommendations. I finally caved in yesterday and gave it a shot. This climb was much better than I anticipated with brilliant moves throughout the entire second half of the climb. The roof crux is just awesome. It's intimidating getting out from below the overhang, but the holds are there. Although The Reward is my favorite this is just as good as the other climbs on the righthand side of The Monkey House. Jun 28, 2008

Andy Ban
CO

5.11b

Unfortunately it's very dirty on first third of climb. The second third is very fun moves through some horizontal edges. The roof is a very strenuous crank, but the moves are fun. Get on it if it's dry! Aug 3, 2016

Dave Holliday

"It is probably 5.9 for those Eldo-wizards."

I'd love it if the Eldo-wizard who posted this route would show me the 5.9 way to do the crux. Sep 10, 2019

Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado

5.11a/b

FWIW, I'm not an Eldo wizard, but this felt oddly similar to some 5.9 deep in my data banks from Eldo, maybe something near Vertigo like Mickey Mouse Nailup? Sep 12, 2019

Robyn Van Zile
Denver, CO.

Still a bit chossy - also thought pulling through the roof was very heady, much harder than Curvaceous across the way. Mar 28, 2022