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Routes in Notchtop
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Direct South Ridge T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Finding Religion on the Spiral T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Instant Clarification (AKA Rap Route) T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Laid Back (a.k.a. NE Ridge) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Mornin' T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Optimismus T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Relief Train T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Religion T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Spiral Route T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Topnotch T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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White Room T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X |
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| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 800 ft (242 m), 9 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | Larry Hamilton and Keith Bell, August 1973 |
| Page Views: | 1,689 total · 6/month |
| Shared By: | L. Hamilton on Apr 8, 2003 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Closures
Details
Seasonal closures Feb. 15-July 31. Per the Denver Post:, the Cathedral Wall and all areas above the Loch Vale-Sky Pond Trail are closed to off-trail travel! Per this RMNP website, "Initial closures now occur in Feb. 15 and April, when raptors return to the region and scout for nesting sites. Areas containing general habitat preferred by raptors are closed during this time. Once raptors have selected nesting spots, the initial closures are lifted or adjusted. The specific areas which raptors choose for nesting sites are closed."
For additional information about raptor closures, please visit the Rocky Mountain National Parks area closures website.
General NPS climbing regulations for RMNP posted here.
For additional information about raptor closures, please visit the Rocky Mountain National Parks area closures website.
General NPS climbing regulations for RMNP posted here.
Description
The big corner on the first pitch, and the two traversing pitches (up left, then back right) that zig-zag through overhangs above the grassy ledge at half height, are particularly good. The rock quality is generally comparable to that of Hallett or the Petit Grepon, although much less climbed. Below is the original FA route description.
Begin slightly left of the center of the main E face of the Notch Spire itself, in the leftmost of three prominent roofed dihedrals.
P1: From the left end of a huge, flat flake, leap across a moat and into a lieback on the main wall. Proceed up the dihedral for a long, strenuous pitch. Exit left near its top and belay. 5.8.
P2: Starting from the right edge of the belay ledge, climb right-facing flakes and dihedrals to a large grassy ledge. 5.7.
P3: An easy chimney, face and corner pitch leads to a meadow. 5.4.
P4: Wander up right to another meadow. Walk up to a large block leaning against the upper wall, and belay atop this. 3rd-4th class.
P5: Make a rising traverse across the smooth face to the left, and belay on an uncomfortable grassy stance at the base of a vertical corner-crack. 5.8.
P6: Climb the crack and make a long exposed traverse back to the right, below a long narrow roof. Belay in the bulging gully that forms the right boundary of the upper wall. 5.8.
P7: Follow this steep gully. Towards the end of the pitch, wander out onto a nice belay ledge on the left. 5.6.
P8: Climb up and right into an overhanging, dihedral system that is followed to an adequate belay area. 5.8.
P9: Continue up the bulging gully to the summit of the Notch Spire.
Begin slightly left of the center of the main E face of the Notch Spire itself, in the leftmost of three prominent roofed dihedrals.
P1: From the left end of a huge, flat flake, leap across a moat and into a lieback on the main wall. Proceed up the dihedral for a long, strenuous pitch. Exit left near its top and belay. 5.8.
P2: Starting from the right edge of the belay ledge, climb right-facing flakes and dihedrals to a large grassy ledge. 5.7.
P3: An easy chimney, face and corner pitch leads to a meadow. 5.4.
P4: Wander up right to another meadow. Walk up to a large block leaning against the upper wall, and belay atop this. 3rd-4th class.
P5: Make a rising traverse across the smooth face to the left, and belay on an uncomfortable grassy stance at the base of a vertical corner-crack. 5.8.
P6: Climb the crack and make a long exposed traverse back to the right, below a long narrow roof. Belay in the bulging gully that forms the right boundary of the upper wall. 5.8.
P7: Follow this steep gully. Towards the end of the pitch, wander out onto a nice belay ledge on the left. 5.6.
P8: Climb up and right into an overhanging, dihedral system that is followed to an adequate belay area. 5.8.
P9: Continue up the bulging gully to the summit of the Notch Spire.
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