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Damn Right I've Got the Moves

5.8+, Sport, 55 ft (17 m),  Avg: 2.4 from 275 votes
FA: Crusher Bartlett, Fran Bagenal, 1987
Colorado > Canon City > Shelf Rd > Spiney Ridge

Description

This is in the center of the leftmost wall on Spiney. The climb follows a noticable crack line up the main face. With good holds and footing all the way, the route is a good alternative to Cactus climbs like LaCholla Jackson.

Protection

7 bolts to anchors.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Frank on Damn Right I've Got the Moves.
[Hide Photo] Frank on Damn Right I've Got the Moves.
Spiney Ridge - left.<br>
<br>
Sunday Pockets is renamed 20th Century Man in the new Knapp/Thompson/Aschert guidebook.
[Hide Photo] Spiney Ridge - left. Sunday Pockets is renamed 20th Century Man in the new Knapp/Thompson/Aschert guidebook.
Myong says "Damn Right I've Got the Moves!"
[Hide Photo] Myong says "Damn Right I've Got the Moves!"
A great climb.
[Hide Photo] A great climb.
[Hide Photo] untitled
Jean Aschenbrenner by the fifth bolt on this beautiful crack.
[Hide Photo] Jean Aschenbrenner by the fifth bolt on this beautiful crack.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Ron Olsen
Boulder, CO
  5.9-
[Hide Comment] A beautiful and esthetic line; one of the best of its grade at Shelf. Oct 15, 2003
Larry Shaw
  5.8+
[Hide Comment] I really liked this route...good one for the grade or warmup. Sep 27, 2004
Livia
Doha, QA
[Hide Comment] Very nicely bolted for a newish 5.8+ leader. Jul 21, 2005
[Hide Comment] Was on this route 10-10-05. I was cleaning the route on the way down and the fourth bolt hanger came off in my hands. This is valuable pro, as it protects the crux. Jennifer, my belayer, saw the washer and nut fall as I passed the bolt on lead but thought they were pebbles. Nut, washer and hanger are now resting on a small but prominent ledge at the base of the climb (I didn't have a wrench). If you're headed to this area, please bring a wrench and reattach the hanger. This is a very sweet route at the grade. Cheers.Eddy Nov 10, 2005
Gaar
Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
[Hide Comment] Good climb...Looks like the 2nd bolt is missing to prevent rope drag....IMO chop all the damn bolts and make it a trad climb like is should be!! Feb 20, 2007
Jeffrey Arthur
Westminster, CO
[Hide Comment] Maybe I'm just a sport-junkie, but can you safely place gear in Shelf Road's friable limestone? Hmm, maybe that's why the first ascensionist decided to bolt this line. Great line. Mar 23, 2008
Andy Hansen
Longmont, CO
  5.8+
[Hide Comment] A solid climb. It feels right on for 8+. The 2nd bolt is still missing as of 3/24/2010 but you can place a pink or red tri-cam in a pocket and sling extend it for pro. Yes, I would trust trad gear on this route on Shelf's limestone. Apr 25, 2010
Phence
  5.9
[Hide Comment] Just climbed this on 01/14/2012. The hanger on the second bolt is missing, making it a bit sketchy for 5.8 leaders. As for the rope drag issue, a long draw will solve it. I'll come with a hanger next time I'm there in case someone doesn't beat me to it. Fun warm-up for sure. Jan 15, 2012
[Hide Comment] I don't think there ever should have been that second bolt, unless you're into z-clipping. A good 5.8 though, not gimme. Feb 23, 2012
Andrew Mayer
Driggs, ID
[Hide Comment] As of 4/7/12, the hanger on the 2nd bolt is still missing but, in my mind, is completely unnecessary. You can clip the 3rd bolt once you are standing on the prominent ledge where the 2nd bolt in located. Great climb. Felt more like 9- to me but was at the end of a long day, so I was probably just tired. Apr 8, 2012
Joel Weinstein
Boulder, CO
 
[Hide Comment] Second bolt is still missing, but it is not needed at all. Not remotely scary or dangerous. May 20, 2012
Southpaw
  5.8+ PG13
[Hide Comment] Seemed hard for a 5.8. Great route though. Jun 1, 2014
dseltzer
Boulder, CO
  5.8+
[Hide Comment] Second bolt hanger still missing. Fine for taller people as you can clip the third bolt from a nice ledge. Scary for shorter people as you need to make a move or two to clip the third bolt. Someone should replace the hanger. Removing it to 'avoid rope drag' is stupid. Just bring a longer draw, or don't clip it if you don't want. Jan 19, 2015
Evan C
Chatty Fatty
  5.9
[Hide Comment] Great climb! If your head game is strong, you won't have any issues clipping the 2nd (3rd) bolt, even if you're short. It's maybe 5.7 or lower climbing at that point. I think the rest felt a bit 9ish in parts. Mar 14, 2016
[Hide Comment] Hanger on the second bolt replaced yesterday. It's a 10mm stainless bolt, so the appropriate metric nut wasn't one that people who do occasional hanger/anchor maintenance tend to have handy. It probably loosened & fell off due to outward pull, so I used blue Locktite to hopefully reduce the chances it will loosen up again. Easy to skip that bolt if you're tall and/or confident, but a good bolt to clip for less experienced folks, especially because with the hanger missing it was a groundfall if you slipped off before clipping the third bolt. Mar 26, 2019
[Hide Comment] Thanks, Greg, for replacing the second bolt! Always grateful as a shorter climber to not have to do spooky moves to clip a bolt that others can reach from a ledge. Nov 14, 2021