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Routes in Ridge 4 aka Mohling Arete
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Anthem To the Sun T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Carrot Flake T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Club Salute T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a R |
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Dialing For Dollars T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Fire On The Mountain T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a PG13 |
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Grande Parade T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Hammer Case T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b A2 PG13 |
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Lightning In The Sky T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a R |
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Mohling Arete T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R |
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Under The Influence T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 1500 ft (455 m), 10 pitches |
| FA: | Franz Mohling? |
| Page Views: | 5,464 total · 20/month |
| Shared By: | Michael Komarnitsky on Oct 16, 2002 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: 2018 Raptor Closure Lifted
Details
As of May 16, 2018, per Flatirons Climbing Council: the raptor closures have been lifted here due to no or failed raptor nesting.
Currently 105744237 is not applicable.
Currently 105744237 is not applicable.
Access Issue: 2024 Crag Closures & Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures
Details
The usual crags are closed for climbing for raptor nesting:
See: bouldercolorado.gov/service….
Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:
flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…
Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.
See: bouldercolorado.gov/service….
Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:
flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…
Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.
Description
Looking for Angel's Way, I stumbled across this prime choice. Remoteness, length of climb, beauty of the route path, and great rock make this a classic for me. It follows the ridge of this rock for as long as you dare.
Start about 50 feet up and right from the roof that caps the base of the east face. Once there you can see a clearly defined crack/flake system running directly for the crest. From there, just stay on the crest, following whatever line of weakness you like.
About 500 feet up, you'll come to a gap that you need to creatively solve. If this freaks you out, don't continue.
Another 300 feet leads to a wild 5 foot gap with about 60 feet of exposure. You can go down and left 5 feet to a tree, then do a VERY airy and somewhat tenuous traverse. Or, you can jump (my partner did) to the round boulder on the other side. I didn't dare to watch.
From here go up a chimney, around another gap, then a creative slot left and a ramp around a steeper headwall. From here you get to even a wider gap with even more of the daily amount of air. Make 3 moves up that headwall right next to the gap (5.5, don't pull that loose flake off).... stand up, gulp, wait, gulp again, then jump to the other side.
Of course you're going to make it, and gain the beautiful sloping ramp that you see ahead of you. Summit fever is approaching, but it's false! Another gap, this time too wide to jump, is ahead of you. Thankfully, you can downclimb down and right, then left to the base of the gap. You can go up the crack in the headwall, or scramble right. Finish!
We did this free solo in running shoes, not anticipating the spicy moves and airy gaps.... but I'm not really sure a rope or climbing shoes would help you much. Regardless, a beautiful climb with solid rock for a long long time...
Start about 50 feet up and right from the roof that caps the base of the east face. Once there you can see a clearly defined crack/flake system running directly for the crest. From there, just stay on the crest, following whatever line of weakness you like.
About 500 feet up, you'll come to a gap that you need to creatively solve. If this freaks you out, don't continue.
Another 300 feet leads to a wild 5 foot gap with about 60 feet of exposure. You can go down and left 5 feet to a tree, then do a VERY airy and somewhat tenuous traverse. Or, you can jump (my partner did) to the round boulder on the other side. I didn't dare to watch.
From here go up a chimney, around another gap, then a creative slot left and a ramp around a steeper headwall. From here you get to even a wider gap with even more of the daily amount of air. Make 3 moves up that headwall right next to the gap (5.5, don't pull that loose flake off).... stand up, gulp, wait, gulp again, then jump to the other side.
Of course you're going to make it, and gain the beautiful sloping ramp that you see ahead of you. Summit fever is approaching, but it's false! Another gap, this time too wide to jump, is ahead of you. Thankfully, you can downclimb down and right, then left to the base of the gap. You can go up the crack in the headwall, or scramble right. Finish!
We did this free solo in running shoes, not anticipating the spicy moves and airy gaps.... but I'm not really sure a rope or climbing shoes would help you much. Regardless, a beautiful climb with solid rock for a long long time...
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