All Locations > Colorado > Boulder > Flatirons > North > Gregory Canyon… > Amphitheater

South Face Direct (1st Pinnacle)

Name: South Face Direct (1st Pinnacle)
Rating: 2.0

5.10c YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII UIAA 20 ZA E2 5b British X

Routes in The Amphitheater

	2nd Pinnacle, NW Corner T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
	2nd Pinnacle, Upper East Face Right T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Countdown V3 6A
	D.A.'s Route T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
	Dialysis Bag T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c R
	Direct North Face T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
	Direct to top of Second Pinnacle T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
	Direct West Bench [formerly listed as variation] T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Diversion T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	East Bench Dihedral T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
	Inset, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
	Inside S. Face (1st pinnacle) T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
	Juniper Crack (1st Pinnacle) T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
	Left Variation (1st pinnacle) T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
	Macropsychotic T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
	McCrumm's Crack (1st Pinnacle) T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
	North Face of the West Bench (2nd Pinnacle) T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
	Northeast Chimney T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
	Northeast Corner T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
	Now and Zen T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Outside East Face T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
	P.S. I'm Blonde T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Pizza Pie Crack T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
	Red Gully, The T,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
	Red Wall aka Raptors in Cellophane T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Roof (2nd Pinnacle E. Face) TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b X
	SE Face aka Southeast Arete (First Pinnacle) T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
	Second Pinnacle East Face T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
	Second Pinnacle South Face T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
	Shortcut T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c V-easy 3
	Siberian North Face T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Slot [formerly listed at Direct West Bench] T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	South Face Direct (1st Pinnacle) TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b X
	South Face Left (1st Pinnacle) T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c X
	South Rib (2nd Pinnacle) T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
	Standard Inside East Face T,TR 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
	T-Zero West Face aka Finger Crack T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
	Tyrolean Traverse TR Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c PG13
	West Bench Dihedral T,TR 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
	West Face (of T-Zero) T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c X

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Type:	TR, 80 ft (24 m)
FA:	at least one courageous individual
Page Views:	1,651 total · 6/month
Shared By:	Tony B on Oct 12, 2002
Admins:	Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC Page Updates (admin only)

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Explore this route in 3D

Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Access Issue: Some crags in this area are closed 1 February to 31 July: Details

The following crags are closed 1 February to 31 July:

Third Flatiron
Queen Anne's Head
WC Fields Pinnacle
The Ghetto
East Ironing Board
West Ironing Board
The Fin
Green Thumb
Jaws

Details
bouldercolorado.gov/index.p…>>>>>

Per George Bracksieck: The 1st, 2nd and 3rd pinnacles are NOT closed for raptor nesting.

Access Issue: 2024 Crag Closures & Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

The usual crags are closed for climbing for raptor nesting:

See: bouldercolorado.gov/service….

Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:

flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…

Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.

Description

In the back of the Gregory Canyon Amphitheater, next to the Inside South Face, you will see series of 3 holds, the top-most being perhaps 15' off of the ground and triangular in shape. Getting to this hold is the first crux. From there, head up and slightly left on descent holds in a B-line for the left-facing corner system. The second crux lies in the corner system, which is not as good as it looks.

Optionally, the whole thing can be climbed even further left or right, and depending upon your wanderings the grade will vary.

Protection

According to Rossiter's Flatirons guide, this route had never seen a free ascent, but the rock does seem solid enough to headpoint. You could get a few pieces in, but the low crux would be very rough and hazardous. The higher crux merely dubious - better be sure.

Best of all, just TR it.