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Routes in Asshole Rock
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Mister Sol T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Cardiac Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Inflatulation T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Wild West Show T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Loo With a View T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
| Unsorted Routes: | |
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Taint T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
| Type: | Trad, 100 ft (30 m) |
| FA: | Dave Bell |
| Page Views: | 7,449 total · 26/month |
| Shared By: | The Internet on Aug 17, 2001 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Description
The area has good crack climbing in a secluded area. This is a good crag...Asshole Rocks/South Platte. If you can find it, it's worth it. I put some info on the approach below that should help.
The route: Cardiac Crack is on the South face of Asshole Rock proper.
When you get to the south face, the route is obvious, being the longest crack, with a roof about 20 feet up. It starts out with a finger crack/corner, where you can use some chimney techniques with your feet. At the roof, instead of pulling up on jugs like it may look, you just start chimneying up through to an awkward pod. The crux is a steep crack section with fingers through hand jams. Mantel easily up to the top, and belay using chockstones.
Descent: walk left (climber's left) from the chockstone belay. You should be able to spot rap anchors on the far West corner. At least one of the bolts is good/newer. Do one short rap. This is the same rap for most all climbs on the South Face.
Location
From Pine Junction, head South on CO 126 towards Pine. Go through Pine, pass it by about 2 miles or so, and you get to FR #550. Take a left on FR 550. Go up about 1/4 mile till you see some yellow "no motor vehicles" signs. Park at the first one of these on the left. Walk down the old 4x4 trail behind the sign.
After a few minutes, the road intersects with the next one off FR 550. At this 3-way intersection, walk left. Keep going around the ridge until the road starts going off sharply to the west. Right as it turns, look closely for a faint trail leading straight up the hill. Take this to the base of the Northeast face of Asshole Rock (evidenced by two 5.11 dihedrals). Form here, to get to the South Face, walk LEFT for a nice bushwhacking session around the crag. I don't think a trail to this side of the crag exists. The trail to the Northeast face is pretty good, but it is kind of steep and faint. It's a dirt trail following a line of sticks that somebody sat there.
To get to Da Butts and some other nice crags, just keep going down the 4x4 trail when it heads back west. These climbs should be easier to approach than Asshole Rock proper....
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