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Nameless Demons
5.10b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 2.6 from 19
votes
Routes in Rock Of Ages
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Black Tie T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Brain Stem S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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Celestial Gate T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Center Dihedral T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Days of Heaven T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Desolation Angels T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R |
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Greensleeves S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Hats Off T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Heavenly Daze S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Multiple Blues T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Nameless Demons T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Original Sin T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Pitch Perfect T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Rope Rider T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Telekinesis S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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Wasp, The T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 130 ft (39 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | A. Sharp & P. Bradshaw, 1981 |
| Page Views: | 3,341 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | Tony B on Aug 10, 2002 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Closures
Details
Seasonal closures Feb. 15-July 31. Per the Denver Post:, the Cathedral Wall and all areas above the Loch Vale-Sky Pond Trail are closed to off-trail travel! Per this RMNP website, "Initial closures now occur in Feb. 15 and April, when raptors return to the region and scout for nesting sites. Areas containing general habitat preferred by raptors are closed during this time. Once raptors have selected nesting spots, the initial closures are lifted or adjusted. The specific areas which raptors choose for nesting sites are closed."
For additional information about raptor closures, please visit the Rocky Mountain National Parks area closures website.
General NPS climbing regulations for RMNP posted here.
For additional information about raptor closures, please visit the Rocky Mountain National Parks area closures website.
General NPS climbing regulations for RMNP posted here.
Description
Go to the left-hand end of Rock Of Ages' lower wall and look for the large dihedral system. This gets morning shade.
P1: Climb up and right on a slab from an old log to the corner, then place a few nuts or a small cam for a directional before starting up the left-facing, left-leaning dihedral to a bulge. This is pumpy underclings and locks. One good rest has a solid 3.5" - 4.5" placement just there (#3.5 Camalot is perfect). This is a 'Thank God' placement because the a few of the others are semi-shallow, small cams. Arrive at the bulge and pass it by on a 1.5" cam before belly-flopping onto a shallow slab. This is probably the most awkward 5.10 move I've ever done. It is apparently much easier for shorter people. If you are tall, the combination of the thin crack and high feet might be quite a spanking. Establish yourself on this slab and build a belay on the corner. although this has been a relatively short pitch (~100'), rope drag will make further progress unpleasant.
P2: Continue up the dihedral to the crux, maybe 5' over the belay. High feet on the left hand wall make this easier than it first appears. This pitch is easier if you are tall. Continue up about 50' to a pine tree, then either traverse left and up to the anchors on the neighboring sport route, or top out on easy moves and then traverse left to the anchors (bolt & pin) up top.
Rap off 115' to the ground. A single 70m just makes it, and a 60m will get you down to a reasonable scramble.
P1: Climb up and right on a slab from an old log to the corner, then place a few nuts or a small cam for a directional before starting up the left-facing, left-leaning dihedral to a bulge. This is pumpy underclings and locks. One good rest has a solid 3.5" - 4.5" placement just there (#3.5 Camalot is perfect). This is a 'Thank God' placement because the a few of the others are semi-shallow, small cams. Arrive at the bulge and pass it by on a 1.5" cam before belly-flopping onto a shallow slab. This is probably the most awkward 5.10 move I've ever done. It is apparently much easier for shorter people. If you are tall, the combination of the thin crack and high feet might be quite a spanking. Establish yourself on this slab and build a belay on the corner. although this has been a relatively short pitch (~100'), rope drag will make further progress unpleasant.
P2: Continue up the dihedral to the crux, maybe 5' over the belay. High feet on the left hand wall make this easier than it first appears. This pitch is easier if you are tall. Continue up about 50' to a pine tree, then either traverse left and up to the anchors on the neighboring sport route, or top out on easy moves and then traverse left to the anchors (bolt & pin) up top.
Rap off 115' to the ground. A single 70m just makes it, and a 60m will get you down to a reasonable scramble.
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