Type: Sport, 90 ft (27 m)
FA: Don Welsh
Page Views: 2,360 total · 8/month
Shared By: Orphaned User on Jun 4, 2002
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

Yikes, a 13a slab climb! When you lower off the anchors, you're a full three feet out from the wall -- sick!

This is actually a very good route despite the thin, vertical nature of the climbing (the crux transpires on slightly overhanging rock). This is the right of the two long, bolted face climbs on the sunny wall just downcanyon from the Skull Cave and has an engaging, sustained 25 feet of climbing high on the wall in a wild position.

Scramble up to the ledge system above the scree field, up and left of the parking area. You can either belay on a lower, bigger ledge (no anchor) or scramble up higher and belay off the first bolt. Lots of 5.10-5.11 face climbing gains a good stance below the bulging crux panel. While there are lots of options through here, I found the best set of holds is actually slightly right of the bolt line, not out left by the remnants of someone's sucker chalk. Dial in this section, punch through on small, but positive holds, and savor the quality headwall climbing that leads to the anchors.

This is a good cold-day route, as many of the difficulties come in the form of making your feet stick in little dishes.

Protection Suggest change

10-12 draws and a 60-meter rope (mandatory!).

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