Type: | Trad, 30 ft (9 m) |
FA: | unknown |
Page Views: | 963 total · 4/month |
Shared By: | Tony B on Jul 4, 2002 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki, Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson |
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Access Issue: Temporary Notice on aerial herbicide treatment & Bad Bolt Submission Form
Details
PSA for those thinking about a trip. The gates are still closed and the sign says enter at your own risk. "Aerial application by helicopter of the herbicide Rejuvra will target over 5,700 acres on a landscape that has been the focus of multiple years’ worth of treatment."
fs.usda.gov/detail/mbr/news….
docs.google.com/forms/d/e/1…
fs.usda.gov/detail/mbr/news….
docs.google.com/forms/d/e/1…
Description
From the top of Sugar crack, walk straight back though a hallway in the rock, keeping your eye to the left. Alternatively, climb Petit Crapon and finish by walking to the end of the slot above that climb. A left turn will bring your into the previously mentioned "hallway" above Sugar Crack.
A few meters back in the hallway, you will see a hand-to-fist crack going up the wall on your left, about 30' behind the top of Sugar Crack. Climb up this, first stemming behind you in the hallway to the big boulder, then fist and hand jamming or thrutching (arm-bar?) up the crack to the top. There is no 'hop' required. You can simply pull onto the rock and jam upward. My partner was short and still flash-followed the route at about 5.9.
Belay off of gear up top before walking across the top of the "Rat Brain" to the anchors above Kim, from which you can rap off.
A few meters back in the hallway, you will see a hand-to-fist crack going up the wall on your left, about 30' behind the top of Sugar Crack. Climb up this, first stemming behind you in the hallway to the big boulder, then fist and hand jamming or thrutching (arm-bar?) up the crack to the top. There is no 'hop' required. You can simply pull onto the rock and jam upward. My partner was short and still flash-followed the route at about 5.9.
Belay off of gear up top before walking across the top of the "Rat Brain" to the anchors above Kim, from which you can rap off.
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