The Great Cornholio
5.12c YDS 7b+ French 27 Ewbanks IX- UIAA 27 ZA E6 6b British
Avg: 2.8 from 5 votes
Type: | Sport, 100 ft (30 m) |
FA: | Jerry Roberts |
Page Views: | 1,759 total · 6/month |
Shared By: | Orphaned User on Jun 27, 2002 · Updates |
Admins: | Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
This route isn't actually on the Anti-Phil proper but is a ways right (up canyon) and sits directly across the road and river from the Project Wall and the Eighth Day. The approach is simple due to a bridge that crosses the stream from Project Wall leading to a path that takes you directly to the start of the route. Alternately, it can be approached from the Anti-Phil. There are quite a bit of nettles if you walk down from Ruckman.
The route ascends the curious buttress that forms the right wall of a huge open book. The route tackles the outer, right edge of this wall and faces down canyon. It climbs through a trio of stepped roofs separated by tan slabs and sports angle-iron hangers.
Climb broken rock to the first rooflet, then step over and climb a nice face to a bigger roof. Surmount this roof on good edges (or use the "interesting" pocket next to them), then bust up the long, tan slab on insecure ground to the base of the monster roof capping the line.
Strange moves out a seam/crack lead to a lip encounter and the anchor.
This would be a pretty good route with some traffic and better bolt hangers.
The route ascends the curious buttress that forms the right wall of a huge open book. The route tackles the outer, right edge of this wall and faces down canyon. It climbs through a trio of stepped roofs separated by tan slabs and sports angle-iron hangers.
Climb broken rock to the first rooflet, then step over and climb a nice face to a bigger roof. Surmount this roof on good edges (or use the "interesting" pocket next to them), then bust up the long, tan slab on insecure ground to the base of the monster roof capping the line.
Strange moves out a seam/crack lead to a lip encounter and the anchor.
This would be a pretty good route with some traffic and better bolt hangers.
4 Comments