Type: Trad, Sport, 5 pitches
FA: Mike Caldwell and Randy Farris, 1986
Page Views: 6,868 total · 25/month
Shared By: paco on Apr 30, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

High Plains Drifter is a high quality, mostly face variation to Fat City. Keep in mind that some of the bolts are spaced a bit. This is not a sport climb.

Approach via Fat City or The 44 and belay after the 10c crux roof. from this belay step left onto the slab and climb the THIN 10b crack straight up to the first bolt. The other and perhaps safer option is to continue up Fat Citys third pitch for 10 ft then cut left on an undercling to the first bolt. Taking the undercling makes the climb 10a but but watch out for rope drag! From here, make a tricky move to the first bolt and continue left and up fast three more bolts. This face section of this pitch is super clean and nicely exposed. Soon after the last bolt you'll pop onto a low angled easy slab. either go up and left to join Georges Tree 5.9 or go right to a seldom climbed 5.10? sickle shaped crack.

Protection Suggest change

High Plains Drifter is a mostly bolted one pitch climb however gear is needed for the start of the pitch and the pitches leading to it and after it. Bring your standard lumpy rack. Also, bring RPs and maybe some HB offset brass nuts if you plan to do the 10b thin crack(see below). Three of the four bolts are nice and new. However, the first bolt (which is actually an old, obsolete belay anchor) needs to be replaced.

Photos

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