PRINT: Rock Climb Simplexity, Estes Park Valley

Simplexity

5.9+, Sport, 75 ft (23 m),

Avg: 2.2 from 65 votes
FA: unknown
Colorado > Estes Park Valley > Big Thompson Ca… > Monastery > Outer Gates

Access Issue: Area closure - now lifted. Previously: Storm Mt./Cedar Park road is reopened to all Details

Per Kurtz: The Monastery is open again! fs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_DO….

Per Julie Nelson: the forest is closed due to after fire concerns in this area until June 30, 2021. There is a sign at the trailhead about the closure. See the US Forest Service website for further updates.

Previously: per Bruce Hildenbrand: Storm Mountain Road is open to all.

Per Hank C: the Storm Mt./Cedar Park area is closed to locals-only traffic for the time being due to wildfire concerns. We were turned away by a park ranger this morning (9/12/2020).

Access Issue: Access issue - Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc. - open since 2023 Details

Update: per Bruce Hildenbrand: the area has been open since 2023.

Per JF M: as of May 2022, there is no signage on-site, nor information on the USFS webpage for the Cameron Peak Fire (nor on their published map of closures) that indicates the area is closed.

Per Bruce Hildenbrand: it appears that the Forest Service has closed access to all the climbing areas accessed via Storm Mountain Road (Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc.) until they can clear all the dangerous dead trees from the Cameron Peak fire.

I worked this issue with Eric Murdock at the AF, and it looks like the Forest Service picked Devil's Gulch Road as the southern boundary even though all the climbing areas on MP.com were not burned.

Description

Twenty feet right of Going to the Chapel, this is a great face climb with a crux at the first bolt and a Thank God jug after the sequence. It was the best route of the day.

Protection

6-7 bolts plus anchors.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Erin on "Simplexity" <br>
Photo by Blitzo.

Erin on "Simplexity" Photo by Blitzo.

Simplexity.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Clint Locks
Boulder

I enjoyed this route a lot, as it was more interesting than a number of the others in the area. The opening moves make the climb, and aren't as bad as the Gillette book says. It WAS nice to have a spotter to the first bolt, though. Jun 18, 2003

Anonymous Coward

This is a fun route! A little technical footwork then have fun! Bolts where you need them. Dec 22, 2004

Ron Olsen
Boulder, CO

If you're not up for leading the hard climbing to the high first bolt and didn't bring your stick clip, you can lead Going to the Chapel and then rap down to the anchor atop Simplexity.You can then top rope Simplexity or pre-clip the first one or two bolts. Jul 25, 2005

Chris Swope
Greeley, co

Did this route yesterday I think. Actually did three routes right around that area but am not sure what the other two where. I am assuming Simplexity is the one that goes up the black streak like the book says. Does anyone know what the two route are to the left of it and to the right of Going to the Chapel. They seemed maybe 5.8 and 5.9 ish. Sep 10, 2005

Theo Barker
Loveland, CO

The route between Going to the Chapel and Simplexity is Altered Boy. If your start off the ground wasn't substantially harder than the most of the rest of the climb then you were probably not on Simplexity, but one of the unknown routes to the right of it. Sep 30, 2005

Luke Clarke
Golden

A blue Metolius TCU placed in the slanting crack will protect the tricky moves to the first bolt. That sequence may be the crux of the climb. Jun 15, 2008

Canon

5.9+

A spotter to the first bolt would be nice, and you really dont want to let go of that "Thank God" jug. Aug 7, 2012

Bruce Hildenbrand
Silicon Valley/Boulder

In June 2014, Dale Haas and I replaced one of the cold shut hangers (we couldn't unscrew the other anchor bolt, but it was OK) on the anchor with SS hanger. We added SS quicklinks and rings to the anchor bolts. The hardware was provided by the American Safe Climbing Association- ASCA(www.safeclimbing.org). They appreciate your support. Dec 11, 2014

Zeffe

5.9+

Enjoyable! The crux is between 1st and 2nd bolt. Interesting sequence and a bit tricky given you could come close to the ground if you blow it. Aug 7, 2016

Bruce Hildenbrand
Silicon Valley/Boulder

Dale Haas and replaced the other cold shut anchor at the belay with a SS Powers 5-piece bolt. The anchor now has one SS bolt, one plated steel bolt, two SS hangers, and SS quicklinks and rings. Aug 22, 2016

Kat Desilane

Getting to first and second bolts is sketchy. The spotter's position is precarious on rough, sloping ground. The very first moves are pure slab - no pebbles, no ledges. Just gotta stick your feet on and pray. The top gets a little repetitive but is still nice climbing. Jul 21, 2018

P Pod
Salt Lake City, UT

Saw a rattlesnake near the bottom of the route. Be careful! Jul 20, 2019