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Charley Don't Surf
5.10d YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 21 ZA E3 5b British
Avg: 3.8 from 40
votes
Routes in Acid Rock
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Scary Monsters T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b X |
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Four Eyes T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Sandinista T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Charley Don't Surf T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Divine Ms M., The T,S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Roototop (P5-8) (submitted as Unknown between Divine Miss M & Erotic Plants) S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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| Type: | Trad |
| FA: | Leonard Coyne and Ed Russell? Steve Spaar and David Kozak, 1970s? |
| Page Views: | 5,632 total · 20/month |
| Shared By: | Derek Lawrence on May 26, 2002 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
Once the walkoff from the top of Helen's Dome is reached (see area description), head southeast towards Acid Rock and scramble up and left around a large rock with a brand new bolted slab which looks to be all of 5.4. Follow a faint trail which trends right, around 2 more gigantic boulders to the base of Acid Rock. A tunnel leads down and left to the base of Charley and the Divine Ms. M.
Charley Don't Surf follows the immaculate finger crack up and left for 150'. Perfect finger locks and a hand jam or two bring you to the crux not far from the anchors. The thin-crack crux felt more like face climbing than crack climbing as you can't get a good lock till it's over. Continue to the top on 5.7 (looks like more larger cams needed) or rap the 1st pitch with double ropes (we rappelled).
Charley Don't Surf follows the immaculate finger crack up and left for 150'. Perfect finger locks and a hand jam or two bring you to the crux not far from the anchors. The thin-crack crux felt more like face climbing than crack climbing as you can't get a good lock till it's over. Continue to the top on 5.7 (looks like more larger cams needed) or rap the 1st pitch with double ropes (we rappelled).
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