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South Ridge [better known as Chase the Sun]
5.4 YDS 4a French 12 Ewbanks IV UIAA 10 ZA VD 3c British
Avg: 2.6 from 72
votes
Routes in Sunset Flatironette
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Disinclination T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Eventide V0 4 |
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Half-Light V2 5+ |
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Pack Rat T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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South Ridge [better known as Chase the Sun] T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Starlink V0 4 |
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Steppin' Out T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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| Type: | Trad, 5 pitches |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 4,192 total · 15/month |
| Shared By: | Guy H. on May 4, 2002 · Updates |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: 2024 Crag Closures & Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures
Details
The usual crags are closed for climbing for raptor nesting:
See: bouldercolorado.gov/service….
Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:
flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…
Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.
See: bouldercolorado.gov/service….
Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:
flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…
Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.
Description
Roach lists this climb as a "F5" Flatiron classic. There is some good climbing on this ridge. Your second should be solid due to a few exposed notches that must be downclimbed.
From the approach trail between the 1st and 2nd, follow the a faint climber's trail that leads to the west. The first rock you bump into is Sunset. Follow the trail to the lowest point, passing one false ridge line.
P1. Start 10 feet uphill for the lowest point on the ridge, angle to the left, and gain the ridge line. Follow fun slab climbing past a notch and then a pine tree leaning up against the rock to a belay in the 2nd notch (5.3, ~180 feet).
P2. The crux pitch. Downclimb the notch, and gain a runout groove. Climb up to the right-leaning roof system and place a small TCU. The easiest way over this obstacle is to downclimb from the roof and gain the rib near a large hole. Belay up and to the left on the arete (exciting F5, ~100 feet).
P3. Downclimb into a notch, and find a tunnel through to the east face. Belay at the next good ledge to reduce rope drag (~100 feet).
P4. Run up the tiptoe slab to the false summit (~180 feet).
P5. Tag the summit... (~50 feet).
Descent: downclimb between the two summits, and angle back towards the 1st Flatiron (F3).
From the approach trail between the 1st and 2nd, follow the a faint climber's trail that leads to the west. The first rock you bump into is Sunset. Follow the trail to the lowest point, passing one false ridge line.
P1. Start 10 feet uphill for the lowest point on the ridge, angle to the left, and gain the ridge line. Follow fun slab climbing past a notch and then a pine tree leaning up against the rock to a belay in the 2nd notch (5.3, ~180 feet).
P2. The crux pitch. Downclimb the notch, and gain a runout groove. Climb up to the right-leaning roof system and place a small TCU. The easiest way over this obstacle is to downclimb from the roof and gain the rib near a large hole. Belay up and to the left on the arete (exciting F5, ~100 feet).
P3. Downclimb into a notch, and find a tunnel through to the east face. Belay at the next good ledge to reduce rope drag (~100 feet).
P4. Run up the tiptoe slab to the false summit (~180 feet).
P5. Tag the summit... (~50 feet).
Descent: downclimb between the two summits, and angle back towards the 1st Flatiron (F3).
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