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Waiting for Staircase 1-3
5.8- YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 14 ZA VS 4c British
Avg: 2.4 from 37
votes
Routes in Arch Rock
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Arch Rock Direct T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Arch Rock Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Blackjack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Blerg S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Cake Walk T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a X |
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Death by Drowning T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Dorsey-O'Donoghue Direct T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Duck Face S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Frown-E Face TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Fun-E Face S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Greetings from Butchers Hill S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Haircase T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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Hollow Flake T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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In Two Deep T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Kansas Honey T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Left Meanie Crack T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Middle Dihedral T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Middle Meanie Crack T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Mighty Young Joe aka Captain Fist T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Obscura T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Obscura Direct T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X |
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Persistence S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Pride of Sweden S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Prow'd Monkey S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Right Meanie Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Slab n' Grab S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Smiley Face S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Sprout Route T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Staircase, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Sticks and Stones T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Village Idiot S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Waiting for Staircase 1-3 S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Waiting on a Resolution aka Unknown S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Waiting on the Staircase aka Unknown 2 S,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Zamboni Man S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Zendance S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Zorro's Cave T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
Order Wrong?
Sort Routes
| Type: | Sport, 115 ft (35 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 4,609 total · 17/month |
| Shared By: | Barrett Cooper on Apr 12, 2002 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures January 1- July 31st, 2016-2021
Details
For 2022: per Daniel Bryant: they did extend the order, but what I found was that the closed area does not encompass any of the common climbing areas within Elevenmile Canyon.
Seasonal Closures in effect January 1-July 31st, 2016-2021.
For details visit:
fs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_DO…
Maps:
fs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_DO…
fs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_DO…
Contact phone number: (719) 553-1400.
Seasonal Closures in effect January 1-July 31st, 2016-2021.
For details visit:
fs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_DO…
Maps:
fs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_DO…
fs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_DO…
Contact phone number: (719) 553-1400.
Description
These three bolted routes are started at the same location as Staicase and go up the face to the right of Staircase. None of my guidebooks have them listed, and they are to fun not to be on this website, so if anyone knows who put them up, please let me know so I can correct the names.
Follow any one of the three well bolted routes to a pair of anchors with quicklinks attached directly below the overhang (you can not see them until you are right on them). The routes are pretty consistent 5.8- but the top two bolts are pretty well spaced out and a 1.5 tricam fits perfectly into the rock on the right two routes.
The leftmost route, closest to Staircase, has a bit of distance up to the anchors from the last bolt without anywhere to put pro, but it is solid rock. The hardest moves on all three routes seemed to come within the first two bolts. There are only two anchors for the three lines and the routes themselves are a combination of face climbing and smearing.
It is important to note that these three climbs are all over 100 feet long, so two ropes are needed to rap off or if you want to set up a toprope.
Follow any one of the three well bolted routes to a pair of anchors with quicklinks attached directly below the overhang (you can not see them until you are right on them). The routes are pretty consistent 5.8- but the top two bolts are pretty well spaced out and a 1.5 tricam fits perfectly into the rock on the right two routes.
The leftmost route, closest to Staircase, has a bit of distance up to the anchors from the last bolt without anywhere to put pro, but it is solid rock. The hardest moves on all three routes seemed to come within the first two bolts. There are only two anchors for the three lines and the routes themselves are a combination of face climbing and smearing.
It is important to note that these three climbs are all over 100 feet long, so two ropes are needed to rap off or if you want to set up a toprope.
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