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Routes in Rincon - L of Center Route
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Aerial Bondage T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R |
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Aerial Book T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Aero-Book T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R |
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Aerohead T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Aeronaut T,S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Aerospace T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Arete Bandit T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Athletic Supporter T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Bachar Yer Aryan T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Bat's Ass Dihedral T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Brevitata T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Climb Of The Century T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Cuban Bluegrass T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R |
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Emerald City T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Evictor, The T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b PG13 |
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Faulty Logic T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Final Eviction (aka Freeline), The T 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Fraid Line T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13 |
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Freak Line T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Kaisho T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Kangaroo Tail T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Leisure Time Arete TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Must'a Been High T 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a R |
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N.I.C T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Over and Out T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Over the Hill T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Scenic Route T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Surf's Up T,S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Trident T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Ventura Highway T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Wendego T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a R |
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Windy T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c R |
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| Type: |
Trad
Fixed Hardware
(5) |
| FA: | J. Achey, K. Bein, B. Devine, L. Coyne, 1980 |
| Page Views: | 7,193 total · 26/month |
| Shared By: | Mark Tarrant on Apr 11, 2002 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted
Details
Update: as of 6/7/23 per Mike McHugh, ECSP: all closures have been lifted within Eldorado Canyon State Park, including Continental Crag.
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Description
This classic and beautiful Rincon Wall route is one of the most memorable climbs in Eldorado. Right of Climb of the Century is a smooth, chalk-stained, hanging slab with overhangs both above and below. It gradually tapers up to a sharp arete and a steep dihedral. Begin in a short corner and then creep out right onto the face, past all the chalk (crux), using sharp flakes and complex footwork. Edge up the face, eventually touching the arete and then liebacking up the corner (good med. cam). Moving past the overhanging section is difficult (.11c), followed by an .11a move (wires) in the dihedral before the anchor. Most climbers usually lower off at this point, but a nice second pitch (.10d) moves out right and then up a crack and bulge to another anchor. Rap here (150') or climb up to the walk-off ledge (.8).
The fixed pins on Wendego are quite old and are probably not capable of holding a lot of weight. Some of the pins can be backed up with RPs or mini cams, but these aren't bombproof either. Disputes have arisen about placing bolts on Wendego (no!), but it would be better to replace the old pins with new ones. It would be a good way to find out just how bad the old ones are and how they've aged over the past 25+ years. The Park might approve gear-for-gear applications (no FHRC required). If these pins are as bad as people think, then there should be very little scarring when they are removed, and new and better pins could take their place. Maybe the slots left from the old pins would leave bomber cam placements?!
Even as is, Wendego is superb. With some careful upgrading more climbers might be willing to get on it. The elaborate moves, vintage gear, and overall challenge add up to an exemplary Eldorado experience.
The fixed pins on Wendego are quite old and are probably not capable of holding a lot of weight. Some of the pins can be backed up with RPs or mini cams, but these aren't bombproof either. Disputes have arisen about placing bolts on Wendego (no!), but it would be better to replace the old pins with new ones. It would be a good way to find out just how bad the old ones are and how they've aged over the past 25+ years. The Park might approve gear-for-gear applications (no FHRC required). If these pins are as bad as people think, then there should be very little scarring when they are removed, and new and better pins could take their place. Maybe the slots left from the old pins would leave bomber cam placements?!
Even as is, Wendego is superb. With some careful upgrading more climbers might be willing to get on it. The elaborate moves, vintage gear, and overall challenge add up to an exemplary Eldorado experience.
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