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Diamond In The Rough
5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British
Avg: 1.5 from 2
votes
Routes in Diamond Head
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Cameron's Corner T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Climber in the Buff T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Diamond In The Rough T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Facets T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Fistful of Diamonds T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Flaw, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Kill All Bad Brown Dogs T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Let It Rock T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Let it Roll T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Let It Slide T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X |
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She Blew Me T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a X |
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Shibumi T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Uncle Chip T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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V2 T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 55 ft (17 m) |
| FA: | T. Bubb & P. Spindloe, 3/10/02 |
| Page Views: | 798 total · 3/month |
| Shared By: | Tony B on Mar 9, 2002 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted
Details
Update: as of 6/7/23 per Mike McHugh, ECSP: all closures have been lifted within Eldorado Canyon State Park, including Continental Crag.
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Access Issue: No longer closed and no permit is required
Details
Per Tony B: Diamond Head and the other Southern OSMP crags (Split Block, Diamond Head, The Veil, are NOT closed these days as specified on the map here: maps.bouldercolorado.gov/wi….
Likewise, they no longer require an HCA permit either.
Likewise, they no longer require an HCA permit either.
Description
This climb is a jamming adventure on off-fingers to thin hands to wide hands. The name 'Diamond In the Rough' is more than a play on the crag name of Diamond Head, it describes finding a good climb on this spire, in the middle of some otherwise non-descript terrian.
The route in and of itself is great climbing, but it is a long way from the road and is not a long pitch (55' tall). Were the climb a rope-length long, I would give it 3 stars.
Locate this route by finging a shorter summit tower on the ridge line, perhaps 300' South of the true summit of Diamond Head. 'Diamond In The Rough' ascends a splitter crack up the overhanging start of the tower to an offset above, and to the sumit of the small tower.
Scramble or climb to the base of the first 'tower' South of the main crag. This can be accessed via a gully from the West or from Diamond head's ridge line from the North. You will come to a left-facing corner in the rock, back track 3 meters left to a stance by a good belay-tree and look up into the splitter. The crack starts on fingers through a bulge, then goes to hands, then to wide hands before taipering shut up top. Lead it to the top and belay on the tower summit, being wary of a few stacked rocks in a notch that are wobbly. They are secure by 2 sides holding them in, but wobbly, so you should not set get in that crack. purple, green and red camalots set further down and back are solid.
To descend, scramble down the back about 20 feet, then walk off to the South until you reach the cliff base. You can also scramble back off North to the belay stance, then back down the gully.
This route was initially established on-sight via a start on the obvious overhanging flare and slot to the right, in a left-facing corner, whcih was intended to be a different line. At a critical 'death-block' I traversed out left to join this splitter. Done this way, the difficulty is 5.11- and the route is rated R. R for lack of gear. The route was followed via the direct line, which is safer, more logical, and better overall, and only 5.10 as lead directly in 2008.
I went back in 2008 to to assses the condidtion of the block more carefully and possibly clean it, but it had already fallen out or been cleaned. The direct corner was on-sighted, free-solo, by Jason Haas, as a 5.9.
The route in and of itself is great climbing, but it is a long way from the road and is not a long pitch (55' tall). Were the climb a rope-length long, I would give it 3 stars.
Locate this route by finging a shorter summit tower on the ridge line, perhaps 300' South of the true summit of Diamond Head. 'Diamond In The Rough' ascends a splitter crack up the overhanging start of the tower to an offset above, and to the sumit of the small tower.
Scramble or climb to the base of the first 'tower' South of the main crag. This can be accessed via a gully from the West or from Diamond head's ridge line from the North. You will come to a left-facing corner in the rock, back track 3 meters left to a stance by a good belay-tree and look up into the splitter. The crack starts on fingers through a bulge, then goes to hands, then to wide hands before taipering shut up top. Lead it to the top and belay on the tower summit, being wary of a few stacked rocks in a notch that are wobbly. They are secure by 2 sides holding them in, but wobbly, so you should not set get in that crack. purple, green and red camalots set further down and back are solid.
To descend, scramble down the back about 20 feet, then walk off to the South until you reach the cliff base. You can also scramble back off North to the belay stance, then back down the gully.
This route was initially established on-sight via a start on the obvious overhanging flare and slot to the right, in a left-facing corner, whcih was intended to be a different line. At a critical 'death-block' I traversed out left to join this splitter. Done this way, the difficulty is 5.11- and the route is rated R. R for lack of gear. The route was followed via the direct line, which is safer, more logical, and better overall, and only 5.10 as lead directly in 2008.
I went back in 2008 to to assses the condidtion of the block more carefully and possibly clean it, but it had already fallen out or been cleaned. The direct corner was on-sighted, free-solo, by Jason Haas, as a 5.9.
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