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Advanced Rockcraft
5.12b YDS 7b French 26 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 26 ZA E5 6b British
Avg: 2.6 from 7
votes
Routes in Upper Peanuts
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Ace Of Spades T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R |
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Advanced Rockcraft S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Cardinal Richelieu T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X |
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Cruise, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Downstairs T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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Gravity's Angel S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Heavy Weather T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Martyr's Arena T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Sunrider S,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Through and Through T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Twilight T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Twilight Variation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Upstairs T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: |
Sport
Fixed Hardware
(2) |
| FA: | Fowler, Copeland, Horan, Rolofson, 1986 |
| Page Views: | 1,260 total · 4/month |
| Shared By: | Richard M. Wright on Feb 27, 2002 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted
Details
Update: as of 6/7/23 per Mike McHugh, ECSP: all closures have been lifted within Eldorado Canyon State Park, including Continental Crag.
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Access Issue: Permit to access - required?
Details
Per Tony B: according to this recently published map from OSMP, Upper Peanuts Wall is now in an HCA and requires a permit: maps.bouldercolorado.gov/wi….
Description
Start directly below Sunrider to the right of a large flake augured into the ground. Climb out left in the large, left-facing dihedral. The awkward part-smear, part-stem crux comes at about 15 feet, just above the bolt. Two more pins leads into a largely unprotected run for the tree. This climb would be a tricky on-sight, and what we used to do was run up Gravity's Angel (on the left) and get the clips set above the bolt. I've always felt really scrunched up in the crux. There is not much in the corner for hands, not much on the face for hands either, and the position is cramped. Nonetheless, this is a crafty sequence to solve, probably classic. The original hideous anchor (a pin and a wire) can be avoided if you are willing to run up to the tree, and this is highly recommended.
While I probably will not get any support for this idea, slapping in a bolt 15 feet below the tree would turn Advanced Rockcraft into the classic that it deserves to be.
While I probably will not get any support for this idea, slapping in a bolt 15 feet below the tree would turn Advanced Rockcraft into the classic that it deserves to be.
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