Lost Cities

Lost Cities has a really fitting name. Set away from the humdrum of the rest of the Canyon climbing, the remote setting feeds the imagination with thoughts of primordial ooze and the climbing archaic. The climbing in stretches is excellent, with several memorable passages of difficult-to-decipher contortions, but there is also a fair bit of munge (does this sound familiar?). The sweeping character of many North Chasm View routes is also somewhat lacking here, since the climb is broken by a large terrace 3 pitches from the rim. It is possible to escape from this terrace to the climbers left should the mood or circumstances require. It is also possible to climb only the upper pitches as an afternoon activity, or on one of those marginal spring days when rain threatens enough to deter thoughts of venturing deeper into the gorge. These pitches are pretty fun, and almost completely on (for once) very nice peg. The route ends right at the Narrows Overlook. If you have never been to this overlook go there now- great views of the Nose of Chasm View and a spectacular perspective on the gorge await. Lost Cities is an excellent adventure route with difficult climbing- a great (and creative) effort.

Descend Prisoner of Your Hairdo Gully (say what?). This is the second gully up-canyon from the Cruise Gully (the first is Grizzly Gulch, the major drainage you drive down to the "T" intersection; it has a sign at the top of the actual descent). You can walk from the CG, park at the "T" intersection, or (best) park at Narrows Overlook and have the car waiting when you top out. Cross the meadow that leads into the head of the gully and stumble down the gully.

P1-P3: The lower section of the route is 5.8 chossy wandering. The best route description is to locate the very obvious crux roof about 400 up, and head for it. Belay at the base of a slab just under the roof.

P4: Climb the slab (rated 5.11 but easier) and, without the slightest hesitation, tackle the 5.12- roof above. This is a weird bit of climbing that requires a rather creative approach. Above the lip one is faced with a powerful lieback protected by some bolts, hard 5.11. Belay at a tiny stance.

P5: A short blip of 5.10 leads up and then left under a large roof, then back up and right to a ledge.

P6: Climb hard 5.10 fingers (tricky) to 5.9 hands. An excellent, semi-classic pitch. Belay at a stance below an intimidating and steep section of wall.

P7: Another crux pitch but very different from the roof crux below. Head up a 5.10 corner into a difficult, shallow dihedral (hard 5.11) protected by a fixed pin and some sparse RP-like gear. Luckily the hardest section is brief, although above is a tad more 5.11 stemming. Belay at the edge of the bushy terrace.

Cross the bushy terrace directly to the upper wall. Head climbers left along the base of the cliff about 300 feet, to below the best line you can see.

P8: Moderate climbing leads to a short stretch of 5.11- hands, then past a flake and a belay at a bolt somewhat higher.

P9: Step right and climb a 5.11 corner leading to a wide groove (5.10) with some finger jams in it. A short 5.10 hand crack leads to a 2-bolt belay.

P10: 5.11 fingers leads left past a ledge and a nice (hard 5.10) stemming section. The top out is just above.

A double set from wired nuts to #3.5 Friend, include RPs, TCUs, and one #4 Friend. There are modern bolts at many of the cruxes, a fixed pin or 2, but also some crafty nutting on difficult terrain. A classic, new-wave, mixed protection scenario.