[Hide Comment] Speaking of depriving yourself of the crux; the above description aborts in a convenience rappel a full pitch or two below the crux of this route; the slabby face climing on the last pitch is the crux. However, it's also slightly dangerous and using the above described anchor or White Crime anchor are both convenient cragging aids. Sep 12, 2004

[Hide Comment] Wonder if the climb's namesake is P2, not P1. We did P2 as a continuation of Straw Turkey. The correct P2, I think, goes up a "gully" to the left of thee rap anchors (or climb the crack on the left and then into the gully). The gully eventually tapers with the walls converging at a slot that is too narrow to squeeze through but takes gear (#3, #3.5 Camalot). This may be the "asshole". You chimney precariously on the outside to get past this constriction. It's not too hard, but spooky, since you're looking at a grating swing back into the bowels.

My partner Chuck attempted to lead the "10a R" last bit, but fell a few times, the last one about 15', so we bailed. I didn't feel his weight on the ropes on any of the falls, but I was 150' down, so there may have been a bunch of drag.

My 1984 "For Turkeys Only" guide (by Steve Cheyney) says the last bit "is a somewhat serious pitch". Chuck's a good slab climber and thought this final bit was much harder than 10a and very runout. Jun 19, 2005

[Hide Comment] If you look up at the rock from below and at a short distance to the south, you will see the namesake horse's arse or Satyr's a-hole. The route goes right up under the tail and steps left to a large ledge under the crux vanishing crack. I would build a belay here and bring your second up to give a good belay through the heady climbing. Place a solid Alien and fire the slabby, slopey move, which is just a few feet above your pro. Runout climbing always feels harder than well-protected, but falling from the move is not very high consequence and happens a lot. The R rating comes from the lack of gear above that point on the 5.5 slab to the top. Feb 8, 2006

[Hide Comment] Going left to the chains misses the crux of this climb. Instead, go right via some thin face moves (kind of dirty, must not see much traffic) and then climb up through a nice fist offwidth bulge. Above continue up some good finger and hand cracks til you get to a good ledge with a rap anchor to your right. May 8, 2006

[Hide Comment] Part of the reason the 10a finish at the disappearing crack is so hard it that the rock quality isn't that stellar. Your feet crumble off if you choose poorly. It's not as solid climbing as say "Climb of the Ancient Mariner." Go right at the end of the crack instead of straight up or left. Nov 1, 2008

[Hide Comment] Bring an offwidth climber like my partner Sam and do this in 4 pitches. This is definitely one my favorite climbs to date. What a freaking blast! He got a 0.3 in a shallow crack on P1 at the crux that might have held, but he’s 6’5” and could reach the key holds above. Then he continued up slightly right into an offwidth and to the Straw Turkey cable anchor. If you don’t rap here, you have to top out, but this is where the climb gets even better. There’s a short 5.8 pitch leftward with a flake then small hands to fingers and tops on a nice small ledge. Then jog right for an awesome hand crack then another fun, short offwidth. Traverse left, and find a small cave. P4 was a small chimney that takes you to the top of Stewart’s Crack. You could rap (bring a leaver biner) or summit. May 2, 2022