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Blank Frank
5.12a/b,
Sport,
Avg: 3.5 from 38
votes
FA: unknown
Colorado
> Canon City
> Shelf Rd
> Dark Side
Description
The Dark Side is the "technicians choice" of Shelf. Vertical to barely slabbing (don't judge these routes' steepness by how they look from the trail), these routes inspire the ballet dancer in all who attempt the climbs here!
Blank Frank is a great dance up one of the best faces in the Dark Side. A few moves up less then perfect rock soon gain the long, very sustained crux on small crimps and side-pulls to a great rest ledge below the final roof-bulge. A devious sequence on monos and underclings gets you over the roof and to the anchors.
[Hide Photo] Adam Sinner making it look casual while giving us The Finger on Blank Frank. I've never used so many consecutive, sequential, natural, absolutely crucial, non-tweaky monos on any route.
[Hide Comment] Excellent route! Great battle through the pump and sequences all the way to the anchors. Rock quality is only a bit lower near bottom, and didn't detract from my experience. A must do, three stars IMHO.
Apr 29, 2002
[Hide Comment] Replaced all hardware in 2018. Support from Maxim Ropes and The Access Fund, all hardware courtesy of the ASCA. Consider a donation @ safeclimbing.org Fantastic route, climbs much better than it looks.
Jun 28, 2018
Avg: 3.5 from 38
votes
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Boulder, CO
CA
Chatty Fatty
Lander, WY
Chatty Fatty
This is my favorite route at The Dark Side now that it has nice, modern anchors. Oct 22, 2018