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Kahuna Roof
V6,
Boulder,
Avg: 3.7 from 94
votes
FA: [Steve Mammen or maybe Mark Wilford?]
Colorado
> Ft Collins
> Carter Lake
> Kahuna Boulder
Description
This is is perhaps the most ultra-classic problem at Carter Lake, and is practically a destination by itself. It's located on the steepest overhanging side of the Kahuna boulder. Start with your hands matched on the large half-moon hold, find a way to stick the sloping shelf a few feet up, and then crank a couple more solid moves to top out. Like much of the rest of Carter, it's on fantastic rock, the landing really couldn't be any better, and the moves are truly spectacular. Definitely one of the Front Range's best problems.
Protection
A crashpad or two will be plenty for this problem.
[Hide Photo] Notice, the boulder has sunk about two to three feet and tilted downward on the westward side about 10° (i.e., it's steeper). Climber is 5'10" and easily reaches the sloper.
[Hide Comment] I'm really not up on my Front Range bouldering history, so maybe someone a little more knowledgable can help me out with the first-ascent info for this one.
Dec 4, 2001
[Hide Comment] Definitely one of the best sandstone problems around. A variation to Kahuna Roof moves to the slopers then move right along the lip. I heard it was called "Turtle Head". I don't know the grade. Seems harder than Kahuna roof.
Apr 2, 2002
[Hide Comment] I flashed a V7 and did Tommy's Arete (V7) the day before and couldn't pull near the second move on this. So, I'm not sure about the grade. Ahem, sandbag.
Jun 19, 2006
[Hide Comment] That problem is sick! A must do! The hardest part of the problem is the second move to the right hand sidepull, after that it's not really too bad.
Sep 17, 2006
[Hide Comment] Right side pull has broken for second move. Still goes but after all the breaking in the recent years, most would probably consider this to be V6 or maybe even V7. It is a classic though, so maybe V5 should always remain not that that makes much logical sense.
Jan 26, 2009
[Hide Comment] I was on Kahuna recently now that the water is low enough (freaky rain this year) and the side pull seems the same as it was last season. I've always felt that V5 was a bit of a sand bag but certainly not V7.
Jul 9, 2009
[Hide Comment] This problem took me three sessions and felt like V6+, but I was using some crazy heel beta that had me hanging on the second hand hold for way too long. I went back and sent it again with a drop knee to get the second hold and then bumped asap to the good crimp above. This way is much easier, but still harder than V5 I think. This is one of those problems that feels easy when you master it.
Dec 17, 2009
[Hide Comment] Sending Kahuna! This route was amazing. Great movement from start to finish. This one is not over till it's over. It's stiff for a V5 IMO, but either way it's great.
[Hide Comment] This was a classic, but I have this sinking feeling (pun intended) it's on its way out. I climbed this as far back as 1988, and it's not the same problem - not even close. It's rather sad this climb is no longer a historical yard stick as the Kahuna boulder has moved a number of times over the years.
Kahuna boulder in the last few years sank about two to three feet and tilted downward on the westward side about 10° (i.e., it's steeper). It feels much harder now, V7, and the quality is not as good and sadly likely to deteriorate further as the block is underwater at least half the year.
Oct 15, 2017
[Hide Comment] I did this before it tilted and now again after, and I would argue that although the first move is not as cool (as Joseph pointed out), the rest of the problem is much more interesting and technical now that it is steeper. In my opinion... V7 and just as good as before...for now.
Dec 4, 2017
[Hide Comment] Wow, when I got there, I thought that the water had just deposited more sediment at the base, but now comparing it with photos from 2001-2006, it is really very obvious that it has sank and is indeed steeper. Still great though, I'm not sure how increasing its steepness could take away from the quality. Sure it's definitely harder than V5 now or even V6, but all the moves are still there (albeit, lower to the ground).
Mar 10, 2020
[Hide Comment] This problem is essentially gone. I went a couple weeks ago and the whole boulder looks to have finally toppled over, with broken rock scattered about showing it majorly shifted recently. The starting hold was touching the water with only about two feet of water below it.
The angle of the problem would be well over 60% now.
Jun 29, 2021
[Hide Comment] Just went here a couple days ago. It's definitely very steep now but still probably doable by someone stronger than me. The water is also pretty low now, so I imagine this isn't climbable for part of the year.
Sep 22, 2021
Avg: 3.7 from 94
votes
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Phoenix, AZ
Lakewood, CO
Not a single flaw. Apr 5, 2007
Fort Collins, CO
Denver, CO
LEXINGTON
youtube.com/watch?v=z9uJfU8… Apr 19, 2012
Nederland, CO
Carbondale, CO
Kahuna boulder in the last few years sank about two to three feet and tilted downward on the westward side about 10° (i.e., it's steeper). It feels much harder now, V7, and the quality is not as good and sadly likely to deteriorate further as the block is underwater at least half the year. Oct 15, 2017
Broomfield
The angle of the problem would be well over 60% now. Jun 29, 2021