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Routes in Old Easy
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Gehe Jetzt T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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MRC Left T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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MRC Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Straight Edge T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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No Name Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Dire Pitch T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Golden Grief T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
| Unsorted Routes: | |
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Aluminum Overcast T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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Bear Flare, The T V6 7A |
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Biggest Lips in Rock 'n' Roll, The V3 6A |
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Biggest Tits in Country Music, The T V3 6A |
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Bombay Hooker V6 7A |
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Boneghazi V3 6A |
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Borg, The V12 8A+ |
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Cheap Perfume V1 5 |
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Cheap Perfume Direct V1 5 |
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Cincinnati Sua Slide T V5-6 6C+ |
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Classic Splitter T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c V2 5+ |
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Dancing All Night T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Desiderata T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a V5- 6C |
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Finger Fantasy T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Guardian T V7 7A+ |
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Hatchet, The V6 7A |
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Nameless Crack V3 6A R |
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Old Easy Arete (aka "Arettez Maintenant") S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Psychoshop T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b V7 7A+ |
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Red Snapper, The T V10 7C+ |
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Reverse Cowgirl V2 5+ |
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Seeking Subtle Hands T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Soggy Bottom T V5 6C |
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Unknown Boulder V0 V0 4 |
| Type: | Trad, Boulder |
| FA: | Bob Scarpelli |
| Page Views: | 19,722 total · 69/month |
| Shared By: | Dave Chenault on Nov 28, 2001 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki, Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson |
Access Issue: Bad Bolt Submission Form & USFS press releases
Details
See more USFS updates and press releases here:
fs.usda.gov/detail/mbr/news….
Description
TBTICM is under a low roof on the back side, where that roof meets a vertical wall at its right edge. Slide all the way back. The roof crack is a hand crack at the very start, then pinches down to fingers/off-fingers for most of its length. The best way to do this section is by power underclinging, but since the crack diagonals to the left here, this isn't as bad as it could be, especially since the feet are less than ideal in a few spots. Near the lip, it opens up to good hands. To finish, there are two options: climb the crack over the lip and stand up, or climb to the big knob at the lip, bust a kick-through out left into the roof crack formed by a VW-sized boulder leaning against the main boulder, pull through, and top out on knobs and a flared hand jam. The latter option is harder and very much the better of the two. This is a great, visionary Scarpelli first and an excellent place to practice roof crack climbing and Leavittation.
Protection
Location
Eds. This is located near the Nautilus & Old Easy. Due to the nature of the database, we need to have someone submit the "crag" or "boulder" to move the route to the appropriate location.
To find it, hike up to saddle at the north end of the Nautilus. Look west over to the huge slab, right (ie across the street) of and even with the Coke Bottle/etc complex. Notice the big hat/hogie roll shaped boulder about halfway up the slab complex. TBTICM is on the back side of this. Now drive over there and hike up. It may take some wandering around, but you'll find the boulder in question. Of all the huge rocks up there, it is the biggest.
Per Spencer C park at campsite 12A / 12B. Note the obvious trail into the aspen. The 'boulder' is the big, flat topped feature at the right-top of the hill. Walk straight up from the trail with a wall on your left until you cut right around some boulders, then cut back left across below the 'boulder', and cut left around it to the backside on some slightly slabby terrain.
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