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Beer Run

5.13a, Sport, 100 ft (30 m),  Avg: 3.9 from 78 votes
FA: Scott Frye, 1990s
Colorado > Rifle > Rifle Mtn Park > Ruckman Cave

Description

This is an incredible route -- you may recognize it from the cover shot on the first Rifle guidebook by Hassan Saab. It is a long, airy pitch on the beautiful white and blue streaked wall left of the Ruckman Cave.

Beer Run is the rightmost of a quartet of long, "slabby" routes on the towering wall left of Ruckman and can be recognized by an often-fixed long draw at the lower crux. It climbs just left of a huge round bowl at mid-height on the cliff-band and tackles a series of well-chalked laybacks.

Pass an initial bolt or two to reach a ledge (5.10) then step onto the wall and begin laybacking. The laybacks soon become thinner and you're forced to crimp a bit before a pumpy crux deposits you at an awesome resting hole. Surge up and right from the hole onto the expansive headwall and save some juice for the 5.9+ run-out to the anchors.

This brilliant line is a testimony to the power of beer and to one man's courageous journey down to the distant village of Rifle to procure a six-pack prior to the first ascent.

Protection

14 quickdraws and a 60 meter rope (mandatory).

Per Michael Schneiter, the 6th bolt has been replaced.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

The last move of the long crux sequence.
[Hide Photo] The last move of the long crux sequence.
Ben making moves.
[Hide Photo] Ben making moves.
Just below the tombstone.
[Hide Photo] Just below the tombstone.
Ben Lim making moves for zee glory.
[Hide Photo] Ben Lim making moves for zee glory.
Rifle Climber's Guide: Hassan Sabb, 1995.
[Hide Photo] Rifle Climber's Guide: Hassan Sabb, 1995.
Blotto Burnham on Beer Run (5.12d). Photo Jimi Thornburg. Rifle - Climbers' Guide to RMP; Hassan Saab. 1995
[Hide Photo] Blotto Burnham on Beer Run (5.12d). Photo Jimi Thornburg. Rifle - Climbers' Guide to RMP; Hassan Saab. 1995

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Joe Collins
Boulder, CO
 
[Hide Comment] The runout to the anchors is more like 10+/11- and shouldn't be taken lightly if you are working on this route. It is extremely pumpy after pulling the Tombstone crux. Make sure you have it worked out before the send, or else a very disappointing 35 footer from the chains is likely. One of the best pitches ever. Jun 2, 2006
DB Cee
Chattanooga, TN
[Hide Comment] Sneaky, steep route. Once you've pulled the low mantle crux, it's really restful and broken up to the top. Trust those feet up high. Apr 6, 2010
dbyte
Carbondale, CO
[Hide Comment] FYI: the 6th bolt pulled out today. No visible damage to the bolt shaft, hanger, or the permadraw. The assumption right now is that the bolt may have been tightened down too much, causing the sleeve to crack. The R&I people have it, so hopefully it'll get replaced ASAP. Jun 24, 2012
Michael Schneiter
Glenwood Springs, CO
[Hide Comment] The 6th bolt was replaced. Oct 22, 2012
[Hide Comment] Mike gave me some hardware, so the 2 worn quicklinks have been replaced. Jul 25, 2020
Michael Schneiter
Glenwood Springs, CO
[Hide Comment] The route is now all glue-in bolts. Also, all hardware was checked and updated including the anchor and permadraw links and carabiners during the 2022 Rendezspew. Help support efforts to update and maintain hardware in the canyon by donating to the Rifle Climbers Coalition at rifleclimbers.org/donate/. Oct 3, 2022