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Ligneous Embracer
5.9+,
Sport,
Avg: 2.8 from 46
votes
FA: Tom Helvie, 7/92
Colorado
> San Luis Valley
> Rock Garden
Access Issue: ACCESS ISSUE* - PULLOUT PARKING CLOSURE
Details
Per
A Lee: *ACCESS ISSUE* - PULLOUT PARKING CLOSURE
The parking lot off Hwy 41G used to be the established point of access to the main canyon, but it is now closed. On 5/31/2020, an access issue arose due to the lot being overcrowded with ~7 vehicles. Saguache County Sheriff was called by the landowners, and the climbers were asked to leave the canyon. Climbers should park at the Penitente Main Canyon and hike in, or park at the established BLM parking lot 1 mile West on 41G and hike the road.
The SLV Climbers Alliance, with support from the Access Fund, is navigating this access issue. Contact slvclimb.org for questions or status reports, or join the Facebook Group "San Luis Valley Climbers Alliance" for the latest updates.
Description
As far as locating the route, the best I can suggest is approaching from Penitente and looking straight ahead as you enter Rock Garden proper. As a 5.9 leader, my eyes went straight to the route - a steep slab & rather long route for the area.
The start can be made a bit easier by staying in the left hand groove / crack in order to clip the first (and second?) bolt(s). Trust your feet & keep moving up. This is very fun and fairly sustained. It is a great reason to hike into the Rock Garden & start exploring.
Protection
8 bolts + anchor.
Los Alamos, NM
Boulder, CO
Boulder, CO