Avg: 3.9 from 116
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Access Issue: Rockfall Access Effect & Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures
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Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted
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Per Marshall W: it seems that the description for this route disappeared [requested by the submitter], so figured I would do a short write up with the help of Levin's guidebook.
This is a route of immense historical significance that was put up by Eric Doub and Christian Griffith when they were teenagers. Frowned upon in its day for rap bolting tactics, it has stood the test of time and is a must for any aspiring Eldo climber. This one has a bit of a reputation, but don’t let it deter you. The P3 runout is 5.9ish and very manageable. The historical significance of this route cannot be overstated.
The D-G starts on a small island ledge to the left of Super Slab the super slab start. There are two options to reach this ledge and the base of the climb. Option 1) scramble the upper ramp and locate the base of Super Slab. Do an exposed 5.4 scramble up and left from Super Slab to reach the base of the D-G. Option 2) hike up to Vertigo Ledge and do a short down climb to the base of D-G. This is a good option if you plan to do the vertigo rappels since you can leave your bag at the base of the rappels. Bang, bang.
There are two popular options for the opening pitches of this route: the original Doub-Griffith or the Dubious Graffiti variation. Dubious Graffiti is a more independent, more direct line with more 5.11 cruxes making it a more popular option.
The original Doub-Griffith:
P1: pull through a bulge off of the island ledge and head straight up on laybacks and finger locks. Follow the seam to its top and work straight right around the arete to the Super Slab belay, pumpy 5.11-, 80 feet.
P2: head straight up the corner at 5.6 until you see a bolt to your left on the arete. Follow two bolts and a pin through delicate 5.11- slab moves and scamper up to the exposed belay below the crux pitch, 5.11-, 120 feet.
P3: this is the reason you are here! This pitch oozes with historical significance. Traverse down and left to the arete, then go up to clip the first bolt. Take a deep breath, and then cast off towards bolt number two. Continue to follow the arete past three more bolts. Work right after the last bolt to meet up with Super Slab via heroic 5.9 jug hauling to the upper ramp. One can also take the more direct 5.12a variation straight up the overhanging arete for bonus points, 5.11c, 100 feet.
Dubious Graffiti variation:
P1: pull through the bulge off of island ledge, and follow the crack up via laybacks and finger locks. Once at the top of the seam, work LEFT towards a small roof protected by a bolt. After pulling the roof, gain a stance and belay, 5.11-, 70 feet.
P2: work right to the arete past two bolts. Continue straight up, and meet up with the D-G higher up on the arete, 5.11b, 120 feet.
P3: this is the same as the original D-G.
You completed a historically significant ascent of one of the best 5.11s in Colorado. Great work.
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Estes Park
Ouray, CO
Boulder, CO
Incredible climb! Best to warm up by climbing Suparete to the top of the lower ramp. May 7, 2003
Ft Collins, CO
Fort Collins, CO
Boulder, CO
Fort Collins CO
Broomfield
Westminster, CO
Westminster, CO
Boulder, Colorado
thedenverchannel.com/news/1…
rockclimbing.com/cgi-bin/fo… Apr 30, 2008
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Really unfortunate, as it is a cool route. May 16, 2008
Western North America
I do agree with one of the above comments about the "3rd" pitch (it's easy to combine p1&2 and do the whole route in 2 pitches). On the last pitch, if one follows the line of least resistance at the 3rd bolt, it will take you up and right all the way to Super slab. I went this way, placing 2 small cams, and ended up about even with the 4th bolt and unable to traverse back "on-route". I ended up traversing back a bit higher and rejoining DG at its 5th bolt. I think this variation avoids the 11c crux of the pitch, making it more like 11a/b.
So I guess this means that the crux of DG is a bit contrived, but it looked good so I'll have to try to go the true way next time.
-Scott Mar 2, 2009
Livin' in the Junk!
Boulder, CO
We did the Ruper start to Roll Over Rover and then traversed hard left all the way back to the arete and finish up the last two pitches of the Doub... silly linkup as you will be crossing straight over Grand Giraffe and Art's Spar, so not a great idea if it's busy. Mar 19, 2010
Livin' in the Junk!
Edit too add, BURLY! Mar 19, 2010
Nomad
Salt Lake City, UT
Boulder, CO
It's great to see the enjoyment this route has brought through the years. Feb 26, 2014
The climbing to the first new bolt is about 10+. There is an optional, yellow Alien-sized placement before you start traversing left toward the first bolt.
The climbing gets progressively harder, with the crux just past the second new bolt. After pulling the crux, there is a good #2 Camalot placement in a pocket that will provide a directional for the second after they clean the last bolt. The climbing eases quickly toward the summit of the Vertigo tower. It's really nice to have a large sewn runner or cordalette (>6' diameter) to loop around the top of the tower for an anchor / directional. Belay in the normal DG / Super Slab belay spot below the summit of the tower. Optionally, you could also get good hand sized cams down behind the summit of the tower in the Vertigo crack, but you'd need a lot of long runners to reach back over the tower.
FA: Scott Bennett, April 18, 2014. Apr 28, 2014
Golden, CO
Boulder, CO
Amendment to the description: better approach logistics is to actually hike all the way up to Vertigo ledge and do the short (10 ft) downclimb (4th class or 5.0) that drops you right at the "island ledge." Doable unroped, and easy to rope up for this short section too. Then you can have your packs and shoes waiting for you on Vertigo ledge when you rap off. Much smoother than climbing all the way up over the Lower Ramp and soloing 5th class moves to the base. The downclimb from Vertigo ledge is much easier than the traverse from Grand Giraffe ledge.
Stellar climb w/ protection in all the right places. The run-outs weren't bad and all on positive holds. May 21, 2016
Westminster CO
Did this today. There is a small wasp nest on p1, about 8 feet after pulling the roof. I was nearly through the balancy roof moves and was pretty happy to see a left sidepull that looked like it would be a positive hold to relax on.
I noticed it had a bit of a finger pocket deeper in it, so I wiggled my fingers in deeper for more purchase and immediately felt wings buzzing against them.
Luckily I was seconding, so I just jumped off. 3-4 wasps flew out and spent a few minutes dive bombing the rock and generally looking pissed off, before flying off. With rope stretch, I fell about 6 feet below them, and they didn't seem to notice me. Subsequent visual inspection showed a small nest in the back of the seam. It appeared to be abandoned (after they flew out), and after a few falls trying to do the move without using that hold, I sucked it up and stuck my fingers back in there.
Fortunately they let my partner pass without reacting at all, he told me he didn't burrow his fingers into the pocket the way I did, so they apparently tolerated him being right over the nest.
Just a heads up, since encountering these guys could lead to more "exciting" times on lead. Sep 3, 2016
Auburn, Ca
Stellar climbing.
5.11 Arete tour of Redgarden:
Suparete - bolts and single rack,
Doub-Griffith - bolts and single rack,
Naked Edge - pro to 2".
Such a good afternoon! Feb 6, 2017
Lexington, KY
P2 seems to have fewer pins every time I climb it. Aug 6, 2019
Boulder, CO
Broomfield, CO
Louisville, CO
out west
Most do the Doub-Griffith (DG) via Super Slab (SS), because getting to the DG original start is a bit sketchy whether you come from 1) the base of Vertigo or 2) the top of The Upper Ramp. Either way, it is a loose traverse to get to the good ledge at the base. I'd suggest bringing a BD 1 and 2 for a bomber ground anchor.
P1. Climbing the original P1 start is worth it, because it has some of the best rock in Eldo. Climb past perfect pods to a bolt that protects a bulge. The gear anchor at the top of the original P1 is not great. If you belay here, you can incorporate the first bolt of the Dubious Graffiti variation into your anchor with a long sling. It's better to clip the bolt and link P1/P2 (Dubious Graffiti) for a 55m mega-pitch.
P2. If linking pitches, you will have to run it out on the easier bit of the second pitch of Dubious Graffiti after the first bolt. You can place gear in the hand crack on P2 of SS, but you will want to extend it with a quad-length sling so the rope runs left over the arete. The climbing here is 5.8 or easier. Getting to the next bolt is easy, but you will be RTFO (run the f out). A locker draw is recommended if you're a pansy like me. Continue 15m to the belay.
The belay under the crux pitch is a bit finicky. It's nice to have a BD #1, 0.3 or 0.4, and an assortment of nuts for this anchor.
P3. Do the DG direct. It's safe and airy and even if you fall on the .12- bit you've sent the Doub. Bring 7 draws (1 locker draw), a blue Metolius-sized piece, a 0.75 (or #2?) on a double length to protect your follower after the last bolt, and 0.3, 0.4, 0.5, and 0.5 for a belay.
Do not sling the top of the tower for the belay, it is too rounded, and when I tried, my cordelette slipped off and nearly sent me for a 60 footer off the Vertigo Spire. Instead, work down and right about 25 feet to a shallow crack for a belay. This will allow you to lean over the edge and take cool pictures while your partner sends the gnar.
The best long 5.11 in Eldo other than The Edge is Suparete -> DG Direct -> Psycho Pigeon. It's something like 7 pitches of 5.11 and all clean, safe rock. Jun 13, 2024