Old Bolt Route
5.8- YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 14 ZA VS 4c British PG13
Avg: 2.4 from 22 votes
Type: | Trad, Sport |
FA: | [Keith Lober, 1980s] |
Page Views: | 2,748 total · 10/month |
Shared By: | Guy H. on Oct 11, 2001 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Access issue - Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc. - open since 2023
Details
Update: per Bruce Hildenbrand: the area has been open since 2023.
Per JF M: as of May 2022, there is no signage on-site, nor information on the USFS webpage for the Cameron Peak Fire (nor on their published map of closures) that indicates the area is closed.
Per Bruce Hildenbrand: it appears that the Forest Service has closed access to all the climbing areas accessed via Storm Mountain Road (Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc.) until they can clear all the dangerous dead trees from the Cameron Peak fire.
I worked this issue with Eric Murdock at the AF, and it looks like the Forest Service picked Devil's Gulch Road as the southern boundary even though all the climbing areas on MP.com were not burned.
Per JF M: as of May 2022, there is no signage on-site, nor information on the USFS webpage for the Cameron Peak Fire (nor on their published map of closures) that indicates the area is closed.
Per Bruce Hildenbrand: it appears that the Forest Service has closed access to all the climbing areas accessed via Storm Mountain Road (Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc.) until they can clear all the dangerous dead trees from the Cameron Peak fire.
I worked this issue with Eric Murdock at the AF, and it looks like the Forest Service picked Devil's Gulch Road as the southern boundary even though all the climbing areas on MP.com were not burned.
Description
This route climbs the face about 15-20 feet to the right of Rambo Santa (5.7). Most people, like myself, think they are on Rambo Santa when they climb this route for the first time. The climbing is high quality, but the protection is not. The mix of quarter inch bolts and death hangers add a little excitment. There are a few trad placements between bolts.
P1: Head up the slab to the right of Rambo Santa. ([3] bolts, 150 feet). Belay at the bolts for that route.
Descent: Rap with one rope to the chains of Arkansas Patriot or do a double rope rap to the ground. [Apparently, aka DMZ]
P1: Head up the slab to the right of Rambo Santa. ([3] bolts, 150 feet). Belay at the bolts for that route.
Descent: Rap with one rope to the chains of Arkansas Patriot or do a double rope rap to the ground. [Apparently, aka DMZ]
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