PRINT: Rock Climb Resisting Arete, Eldorado Canyon State Park

Resisting Arete

5.10+ R, Trad, TR,

Avg: 1.5 from 2 votes
FA: Hare & Cassidy, 1983
Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > Hawk-Eagle Ridge

Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted Details

Update: as of 6/7/23 per Mike McHugh, ECSP: all closures have been lifted within Eldorado Canyon State Park, including Continental Crag.

Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.

Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.

These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.

Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.

See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.

Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:

Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…

For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…

Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!

Access Issue: Turkey Vulture nesting closure - now lifted Details

Per Dustin Bergman, State Parks Officer, ECSP (1/30/21): the Hawk Eagle closures are lifted!

Attention: CLOSURE - the Eldorado Canyon SP staff has placed a closure for a confirmed turkey vulture nesting as of 7/3/20. This applies to Heart of Gold, Rush Buick, Emergency Brake, The Squeamish, and Nobody's Home.

As of 9/13/19, the turkey vulture closure was lifted. The nest is empty.

Attention: the Eldorado Canyon SP staff has informed us that Heart of Gold, Rush Buick, Emergency Brake, Nobody's Home, and The Squeamish are closed until further notice for turkey vulture nesting. Please respect this closure. This notice came out Aug. 22, 2019.

Description

Again, the route is just down below the area favorites Die Heeda Rule and Brother Jug, but above Tombstone. Locate "The Bowling Alley", a 60' tall flared chimney with a huge "ball" stuck in the top. Climb up this chimney only as far as necessary to pull onto the wall to the left and make your way to the arete. The route felt harder than the 10b/c it was given, but that may have been due to the amount of dirt and lichen on it, which made it feel insecure.

Pull left to the arete and climb up to the top. There is a fixed rap in the vicinity, but a new one could be of use.

This route will improve with cleaning or traffic, but is no reason in and of itself to make the area a destination. Do the good routes first!

Protection

This is rated S. Rossiter says that there is a bolt on the route, but there sure isn't one now. I could not find a drilled hole either. Like Plinth and other area face routes, the pro is not much to talk about. You take a standard rack and live with the runouts or TR.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Mark Roth
Boulder

Wrong gully! This route starts way left of the Bowling Alley.... Probably why Tony didn't see the bolt. Feb 6, 2010

Tony B
Around Boulder, CO

5.10+ R

Right, Mark, but in Y2K, when I did this, the available guidebook was the Rossiter Book which (incorrectly) located R.A. to start in the Bowling Alley and follow out of there, as I did at the time.

Levin has since cleared that up, I presume with the FA party. So, as it turns out, what I did was the FA of what was later climbed again and then named "Shallow Grave" (11a, R) some years later. That matches almost exactly what I did in 2000 and 2001, and then again this week. FWIW, Kat pulled a big "brick" off of the flake on second this time, but the rest seems solid still.

Anyway, I guess Shallow Grave is FA Bubb/Spindloe, July Y2K, and I let Steve L. know for future reference. The name of that route should stand, since it is known as such, and I thought I was on an existing route and never proposed a name for it anyway. Feb 25, 2024