Bushes of Beelzebub
5.8+ YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British
Avg: 2.5 from 64 votes
Type: | Trad, 2 pitches |
FA: | Robert Sandefur, et, al, 1968 |
Page Views: | 5,564 total · 20/month |
Shared By: | Anonymous Coward on Sep 14, 2001 · Updates |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
This is the first, obvious, wide crack system to climber's right of Crack of Anticipation (Classic Dihedral), about 30m and slightly uphill.
Climb the left side of a pillar, then hop right to the main system, and continue to bear right at all choices. 2 pitches; belay where convenient or at fixed anchors for the sport climb next to it (minor traverses required). The cruxes involve leaning, wide OW and pulling over a very, very loose block at bad fixed gear with wasps in the cracks.
Walk off south or rap with [70m] cord to chains 50' up and 25' climber's left of the route.
Climb the left side of a pillar, then hop right to the main system, and continue to bear right at all choices. 2 pitches; belay where convenient or at fixed anchors for the sport climb next to it (minor traverses required). The cruxes involve leaning, wide OW and pulling over a very, very loose block at bad fixed gear with wasps in the cracks.
Walk off south or rap with [70m] cord to chains 50' up and 25' climber's left of the route.
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