PRINT: Rock Climb South Face Direct, South Platte

South Face Direct

5.10c, Sport,

Avg: 2.5 from 41 votes
FA: Russell Johnson, John DeLong, 1982
Colorado > S Platte > Elevenmile Canyon > Elevenmile Dome

Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures January 1- July 31st, 2016-2021 Details

For 2022: per Daniel Bryant: they did extend the order, but what I found was that the closed area does not encompass any of the common climbing areas within Elevenmile Canyon.

From Daniel H Bryant: the 2022 Elevenmile Canyon closures that were extended but do not include climbing areas.

Seasonal Closures in effect January 1-July 31st, 2016-2021.
For details visit:
fs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_DO…
Maps:
fs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_DO…

fs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_DO…

Contact phone number: (719) 553-1400.

Description

This is a great, balancy route up the fine granite. Watch that first clip - the moves aren't too easy getting to it....

A second pitch continues above the first set of bolts, but it is not often done, it seems.

Protection

About 5-6 draws and a few extra for the anchor.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

10c crux section of pitch 1.

untitled

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Larry Shaw

5.10c

Watch the climbing to the first bolt. At about .9, a fall would send you skittering down the low angle slab. Harder moves at the second bolt lead to easier climbing above. May 21, 2004

Darren Mabe

Getting to the first bolt, there used to be a nice right hand hold. I pulled it off in 1997. It made the moves a little stiffer. May 24, 2004

Matt Ford
Colorado Springs

Darren, I hope you're not saying you pulled it off on purpose. Bad ethics if so.

Otherwise, fun route. 2nd pitch noticeably easier (5.8ish) but there's a nicer view from the top and a great belay ledge to hang out on. Sep 10, 2006

Darren Mabe

Matt, it was not intentional. I believe I made that comment as a warning of the slightly more difficult opening moves before you are protected by the first bolt, and in response to Larry's comment about the fall potential getting to the first clip. I fell when the hold popped, and my partner was spotting me. I wasn't hurt though. That's all I remember. Sep 11, 2006

El-Cisco
Denver, Colorado

5.10c

Fun climb with tricky balance moves for the first two bolts. The remainder is straightforward but kind of runout. Aug 3, 2008

dsauerbrun
Boulder

From a tick in May 2022: "broke off flake at the crux and fell".

Read this AFTER I got on the route unfortunately. The crux felt impossibly hard at the 2nd bolt. I onsighted an 11b/c granite slab the weekend before, so I thought I had gotten on some route that wasn't listed and was 12a. Oldschool grade or not, there's no way this thing is in the realm of 10c anymore. Aug 15, 2022