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Castlewood Capers

5.11b, Sport,  Avg: 2.1 from 30 votes
FA: Hanson and Sills, 1995
Colorado > Denver South > Castlewood Cany… > Wendell Spire
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Description

Castlewood Capers runs up the right side of the second buttress left of Wendell Spire. Now, I am most decidedly lazy and will take an easy option when given the choice; however, while this enjoyable line has been touted to run straight up buttress two, without a stem to the right, logic and not laziness dictate the stem. The entry is not even a stem really so much as a back step of no more than two feet. One can pick their poison, but with a back step, this goes nicely at 5.11a. There are good crimps above, and it is a bit spooky making the thin reach to the left before crawling out to the face proper. It has intricate climbing.

Protection

Quickdraws and a rope.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

The short headwall.
[Hide Photo] The short headwall.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Ben Mottinger

  5.11a
[Hide Comment] I think it's still 11a w/out a stem. Dec 1, 2002
Darin Lang
  5.11b
[Hide Comment] Although my climbing savvy is always suspect, I failed to see any obvious or logical stem through the crux, unless one were to go way right of the bolt line. The line either straight through or slightly to the left of the bolt line seemed fairly obvious to me, with a tricky reach left from a so-so hold and then a powerful pull/mantel to the third bolt. Fun moves and well-placed bolts.

Would be two stars if the fun moves weren't so brief.

11b/c. Jun 10, 2003
kevin jenkins
  5.11a
[Hide Comment] This stays solidly at .11a if'n you wise guys stay off of the stem w/ exception of the crux. Well protected! Expect to take a fall getting to the mantel, but bring your brain and use it to, and all will be well...happy climbing! Sep 8, 2004
Big DogBurlyDiesel
COLORADO
 
[Hide Comment] This a short, good, quality climb with a short crux. I opted to stay slightly left and hit a pinch and then up to the rail and continued to cross over along the rail to the mantle. The position of the bolts are right were you need them. Jan 11, 2015
Geoff U
Centennial, CO
  5.11b
[Hide Comment] Unless I got on the wrong route (but it was the rightmost route on the second buttress), neither my partner nor I even thought to stem, which seemed off route. The crux is shooting left hand to crimping rail/sidepull and then eventually manteling. Dec 28, 2016