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Castlewood Capers
5.11b YDS 6c French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 2.1 from 30
votes
Routes in Wendell Spire
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Ba Ba Bob Bob Horan S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Bag of Tricks aka Flake S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Beak, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Black Streak, The S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Bob's Nob S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Castlewood Capers S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Cheesedick Soiree S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Cobble Wobble S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Horizontal Bop S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Icerigger S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Nob Job S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Noodlers' Nightmare S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Nose Job S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Peter Rubble S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Phalloid Void S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Pit Viper S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Pocket, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Prarie Dog S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Ruse, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Seamless aka Knappweed Infestation S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Sidewinder S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Slot, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Song from the Wood S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Sub, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Sun Cave Direct S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Sun Cave Right S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Svengali S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Textured Landscape S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Travesty, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Triskaidekaphobia S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Unknown Chimney T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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| Type: | Sport |
| FA: | Hanson and Sills, 1995 |
| Page Views: | 1,784 total · 6/month |
| Shared By: | Richard M. Wright on Sep 5, 2001 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Historical seasonal raptor closures with 2023 updates
Details
Per Castlewood Canyon: there is a new closure for nesting raptors this year: Five and Dime will be closed March 1st through July 31st. If you have any questions please feel free to reach out to me, Rachel Chaffee (Park Ranger) at dnr_castlewood.canyon@state.co.us or by phone at 303-688-5242.
Per Garrett Garner-Wells:
the current raptor closures, announced by CPW and reported on Denver7:
The following climbing route closures are currently in place:
- Morning Sun Wall is closed March 1-July 31.
- Porky’s Wall is closed March 1 - July 31.
- Vultures Wall is closed March 1-July 31. (per Rachel, CCSP Ranger, dnr_castlewood.canyon@state.co.use or 303-688-5242)
- Shakespearean Theater is closed March 1-May 31.
- Mind Meld is closed March 1-May 31.
As of 2020:
There is a very new and active nest of owls midway up the cliff at the north end of the Neanderthal Wall between Cro-Mag and Up The Red. There is no active nest around the south end of Neanderthal Wall.
As of June, 2017:
The 3 toprope routes at the far south end of Neanderthal Wall (far north end of Allied Wall) have a nesting pair of Snowy Owls. Please stay off these routes until further notice. The park has been notified and hopefully some signage will be put up. The route Rock Rat is included.
As of March 7, 2012:
Shakespearean Theater - restricted March, April, May.
Mind Meld - restricted March, April, May.
Porky's Wall - restricted March, April, May, June, through July 31.
Vulture Wall - restricted March, April, May.
Morning Sun Wall - restricted March, April, May, June, July.
Per Garrett Garner-Wells:
the current raptor closures, announced by CPW and reported on Denver7:
The following climbing route closures are currently in place:
- Morning Sun Wall is closed March 1-July 31.
- Porky’s Wall is closed March 1 - July 31.
- Vultures Wall is closed March 1-July 31. (per Rachel, CCSP Ranger, dnr_castlewood.canyon@state.co.use or 303-688-5242)
- Shakespearean Theater is closed March 1-May 31.
- Mind Meld is closed March 1-May 31.
As of 2020:
There is a very new and active nest of owls midway up the cliff at the north end of the Neanderthal Wall between Cro-Mag and Up The Red. There is no active nest around the south end of Neanderthal Wall.
As of June, 2017:
The 3 toprope routes at the far south end of Neanderthal Wall (far north end of Allied Wall) have a nesting pair of Snowy Owls. Please stay off these routes until further notice. The park has been notified and hopefully some signage will be put up. The route Rock Rat is included.
As of March 7, 2012:
Shakespearean Theater - restricted March, April, May.
Mind Meld - restricted March, April, May.
Porky's Wall - restricted March, April, May, June, through July 31.
Vulture Wall - restricted March, April, May.
Morning Sun Wall - restricted March, April, May, June, July.
Description
Castlewood Capers runs up the right side of the second buttress left of Wendell Spire. Now, I am most decidedly lazy and will take an easy option when given the choice; however, while this enjoyable line has been touted to run straight up buttress two, without a stem to the right, logic and not laziness dictate the stem. The entry is not even a stem really so much as a back step of no more than two feet. One can pick their poison, but with a back step, this goes nicely at 5.11a. There are good crimps above, and it is a bit spooky making the thin reach to the left before crawling out to the face proper. It has intricate climbing.
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