Update: as of 6/7/23 per Mike McHugh, ECSP: all closures have been lifted within Eldorado Canyon State Park, including Continental Crag. Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/… For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/… Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Lakewood, CO
Grand Junction
Boulder, CO
At the end of the traverse, where the edge/rail goes from horizontal to vertical seems desperate. What is the beta per the old beta-max footage of Bob Horan at this section of the climb? There are no feet here -- must be some sort of heel hook mantel combination?
Nov 9, 2003
It's just as likely (probably more likely) that the term "beta" came from "beta test" in which is a test, trial run, or tryout for a product or process before it is rolled out for final introduction. It's a debugging phase. If someone is "giving you the beta" they are reporting the results of their tryout of the route so that you can improve on what they've learned, or at least not make the same mistakes. Considering how many climbers seem to come from the technical disciplines, it wouldn't surprise me that this is the ultimate source of this expression. Dec 5, 2003
Grand Junction
Boulder, CO
Fort Collins
Hank wasn't lying, this pitch is "bitchin"!!! Feb 7, 2009
Eldorado Springs, CO
Beattyvillain
-Corey Nov 26, 2018
All the holds are solid, and I doubt that the route currently gets enough traffic that it will get significantly more polished, so it's unlikely the route will get more difficult in the future. Currently someone has fixed draws on the route, but they did a nice job of matching them to the rock, so they're not an eyesore. The bolts aren't in terrible shape but certainly could use an upgrade.
In terms of the difficulty, I think 13b is appropriate when compared to other Eldo routes. It's harder than Paris Girl but easier than Black Pearl, for instance. Of course, the climb has an old school style and grade, so it's certainly not an easy 8a by any means (perhaps unless you can double dyno through the crux like Carlo?!!!).
I wonder if this route has been onsighted, or even flashed? Given its easy access and longtime popularity (at least up until recently), the lack of onsights and flashes seems like a good testament to its difficulty.
The climbing is quality, although a bit awkward. Basically two back-to-back, old school boulder problems separated by a good rest. The first boulder would be heinous in warm temps or the sun.
A single set of cams to #1 C4 is plenty to get to the first bolt. Jan 12, 2019
Boulder, CO
Earth, Planet Earth