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Rainbow Wall

5.13b, Trad, Sport,  Avg: 3.7 from 23 votes
FA: FA Kyle Copeland; FFA Bob Horan, 1984
Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > Wind Tower > Wind Tower - S Face
Warning Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted DetailsDrop down

Description

The Rainbow Wall starts on the bright yellow South face of the Wind Tower by scrambling up the third class ramp to the right of King's X. A good Friend can be placed before reaching out to clip a bolt that initiates the hand traverse. The traverse is bolt protected and largely on a rather decent edge, it's the foot work that is so tricky. A hard move on very crimpy edges leads into the traverse which is followed by several reasonable moves. A pseudo-rest arises just before the edge system turns vertical and turns very difficult and cruxy. An ancient beta-max, and origin of the term beta, was published in Rock and Ice and shows Bob Horan running through this sequence. I tried the Rainbow Wall several years ago with the beta-max at hand and on top rope and vowed to get back when I thought I had the finger strength. The hard climbing is near the end of the traverse and is indeed rather brief, however, my guess is that the Rainbow Wall will still hold its grade 17 years later and as such makes a terrific first 5.13 lead. The grade seems reasonable, the holds are largely very friendly, and the protection is as safe as you can get, at least in the traverse. After turning the corner on the left work carefully up to the ledge system below the Metamorphosis from which you can rap. With care you can get some stoppers in here. While it is not a big route, the Rainbow Wall is surely an Eldorado classic, and perhaps its turning up today will give just the impetus to get back on it.

Protection

Bring six or seven draws, a few small Friends, and perhaps some wired stoppers. A 50m rope gets you down.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

BH on the World Class Rainbow Wall, Eldorado Canyon.
[Hide Photo] BH on the World Class Rainbow Wall, Eldorado Canyon.
January Ice Storm. Draws on Rainbow Wall.<br>
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© 2015 Ken Cangi, All Rights Reserved.
[Hide Photo] January Ice Storm. Draws on Rainbow Wall. © 2015 Ken Cangi, All Rights Reserved.
Asolo advert (1990) featuring Wolfgang Schweiger on the <em>Rainbow Wall</em> (5.13a), Eldorado Canyon<br>
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Photo by Brian Bailey (http://www.brianbaileyphotography.com/)
[Hide Photo] Asolo advert (1990) featuring Wolfgang Schweiger on the Rainbow Wall (5.13a), Eldorado Canyon Photo by Brian Bailey (http://www.brianbaileyphotography.com/)
Alec Hull about to begin the crux section on an attempt of "Rainbow Wall", 5.13.
[Hide Photo] Alec Hull about to begin the crux section on an attempt of "Rainbow Wall", 5.13.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] The term 'beta' does refer to Betamax (obsolete Sony videotape format that competed briefly with VHS) but the use of the term for climbing purposes definitely predates the Rock and Ice usage. Jack Mileski and others in the Gunks started using the term, I believe. R and I just picked up on the existing usage. Aug 22, 2001
Richard M. Wright
Lakewood, CO
  5.13a
[Hide Comment] What a kick. I have been trying to find the earliest reference in the context of climbing. I wonder if anyone can push the date eack even more... Aug 22, 2001
[Hide Comment] Just for posterity, it is interesting to highlight the fact that this was the first 5.13 in Colorado, and was surrounded by some debate. The debate involved a cry baby named CG and his cronies laboring on this wall, fruitlessly, for a long time when they'd like you to believe Bob Horan walked in and stole CG's route. Bob received bitter, egotistical crap for his acheivement, not accolade. Buy him a beer sometime, he'll tell you the whole story. Then find CG and see if he'll even talk to you, let alone about the Rainbow Wall. (His wall, boo hoo) For posterity, no, I don't climb 5.13. Aug 23, 2001
[Hide Comment] My new family from Boulder, Jan and Nick, took me for a good tour on more nice routes in Eldorado Canyon. After quite full day, we went last to the Rainbow Wall. This climb was very interesting to me. The climb is quite easy to start leading to finger traverse to the left. A short hard move to finish goes up from the traverse and then the route mostly is over. Many fixed pieces are on the route. The route is technical but the difficult section is short so I did not think that to make a flash was so interesting. But Jan and Nick said to me that not many climbers make the flash. I think this is surprise since in Boulder one can train so much on the climbing walls. At Bergen, my home city, we have many young climbers that can make the flash at 5.13. Perhaps not so many climbers in US try for the flash as at my home. I liked this route quite well. Aug 23, 2001
Joe Huggins
Grand Junction
[Hide Comment] Also for posterity. In most people's book the first ascent counts, even on aid. Kyle Copeland led this as an horrendous A3+ in a snowstorm, belayed by me. We had a bet; he said it would never go free, I said it would. I won a dollar! Oct 15, 2001
Dan Levison
Boulder, CO
 
[Hide Comment] Hi Richard or anyone who's redpointed this route:

At the end of the traverse, where the edge/rail goes from horizontal to vertical seems desperate. What is the beta per the old beta-max footage of Bob Horan at this section of the climb? There are no feet here -- must be some sort of heel hook mantel combination?

Nov 9, 2003
[Hide Comment] Kind of old issue, but I just read the 2001 posts regarding the term "beta."

It's just as likely (probably more likely) that the term "beta" came from "beta test" in which is a test, trial run, or tryout for a product or process before it is rolled out for final introduction. It's a debugging phase. If someone is "giving you the beta" they are reporting the results of their tryout of the route so that you can improve on what they've learned, or at least not make the same mistakes. Considering how many climbers seem to come from the technical disciplines, it wouldn't surprise me that this is the ultimate source of this expression. Dec 5, 2003
Joe Huggins
Grand Junction
[Hide Comment] Beta test?...The people who originally used the term had no idea about a beta test, the term definitely refers to the pre VHS video format; ask anyone who was climbing 20-25 years ago. Jan 18, 2004
[Hide Comment] VHS or Beta ? It's not a route name from Rifle, it's the afore-mentioned post regarding the arguements about the preferred video tape "standard" at the time. The very first climbing videos were issued on Betamax not VHS. Given the love for contractions, Betamax was shortened to Beta. Having previously viewed the video's and memorized the sequence from the video the term "Getting the Beta" sprang into the vernacular. Jan 18, 2004
Ted Lanzano
Boulder, CO
 
[Hide Comment] I think the grade on this Eldo classic is solid 13b. Besides being a damn hard route to begin with, some holds have broken off and the foot holds on the 2nd crux (after the rail) have gotten very polished. To me it felt a lot harder than Captain Crunch (13a/b) and more comparable in difficulty to the Web (13b). Sep 3, 2004
Dusty
Fort Collins
  5.13a
[Hide Comment] The runout to the anchors is a bit spicy nowadays knowing that there's an enema waiting to happen should you fall. That tree was tiny in those old pictures of Horan.

Hank wasn't lying, this pitch is "bitchin"!!! Feb 7, 2009
Ken Cangi
Eldorado Springs, CO
  5.13a/b
[Hide Comment] Felt very solid at 7c+. Definitely harder than Captain Crunch, IMO. Apr 15, 2013
Corey Flynn
Beattyvillain
[Hide Comment] Wondering if anybody has sent this thing in the last few years? The only tick on 8a recently is from Carlo in 2017 calling it “soft” and saying he used an all points off dyno through the crux. I mini-tracked it a few years ago in cold conditions and remember it feeling pretty damn desperate. I plan on trying it again soon and will report back on perceived difficulties. Maybe it’s time for an upgrade? Maybe I’m just soft.

-Corey Nov 26, 2018
[Hide Comment] Conditions as of 1/5/19:

All the holds are solid, and I doubt that the route currently gets enough traffic that it will get significantly more polished, so it's unlikely the route will get more difficult in the future. Currently someone has fixed draws on the route, but they did a nice job of matching them to the rock, so they're not an eyesore. The bolts aren't in terrible shape but certainly could use an upgrade.

In terms of the difficulty, I think 13b is appropriate when compared to other Eldo routes. It's harder than Paris Girl but easier than Black Pearl, for instance. Of course, the climb has an old school style and grade, so it's certainly not an easy 8a by any means (perhaps unless you can double dyno through the crux like Carlo?!!!).

I wonder if this route has been onsighted, or even flashed? Given its easy access and longtime popularity (at least up until recently), the lack of onsights and flashes seems like a good testament to its difficulty.

The climbing is quality, although a bit awkward. Basically two back-to-back, old school boulder problems separated by a good rest. The first boulder would be heinous in warm temps or the sun.

A single set of cams to #1 C4 is plenty to get to the first bolt. Jan 12, 2019
Ted Lanzano
Boulder, CO
 
[Hide Comment] Nice work on the route, Josh. I think our friend Sven from Bergen made the flash of Rainbow Wall. See his comment above from 2001. Jan 12, 2019
[Hide Comment] I assumed Sven was just too rad to count, Ted...sort of a lower key, more impressive version Ondra. Jan 13, 2019
Jeff Sigho
Earth, Planet Earth
[Hide Comment] To add to Brian's comment on "His wall, boo hoo", I was friends with Bob way back then. Although the ethic for a new sport route was to respect a red ribbon, that never applied to freeing an aid climb, IMO. Christian had no right to claim Bob had stolen his route. At the time, Bob told me he intentionally "fell" at the crux - popped off one handhold, snagged the next, which was just out of reach. I've never seen that in action. Nov 25, 2021