To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments
so you only print what you need.
Drugs
5.11b,
Sport, 50 ft (15 m),
Avg: 2.9 from 37
votes
FA: Hank Caylor and Paul Glover, 1987
Colorado
> Boulder
> Flatirons
> Central
> Der Freischutz
Access Issue: 2024 Crag Closures & Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures
Details
Access Issue: New Emergency Closure but 2018 Raptor Closure is Lifted
Details
As of May 16, 2018, per
Flatirons Climbing Council: the raptor closures have been lifted here due to no or failed raptor nesting.
Emergency Raptor Closure of Der Freischutz and surrounding formations:
OSMP is enacting a closure to protect cliff nesting raptors at Der Freischutz on Dinosaur Mountain — please see the attached map. The closure includes the BUBBLE and the Dinosaur Eggs formations.
On Wednesday of this week, OSMP staff and volunteers observed that the prairie falcon pair that typically occupies Bear Creek Spire had relocated to the Der Freischutz formation.
The pair’s timing is in the ballpark that if they succeed and fledge young, the formation will open with other closures on or about July 31st.
As a result of the move, OSMP is lifting the closure for Bear Creek Spire.
Those approaching Overhang Rock from Mallory Cave trail will need to approach from Bear Creek Spire going forward or until Bear Canyon trail is reopened.
Description
This short but sweet face climb ascends the middle of the textured face on the southwest face of Der Freischutz, following a line of four bolts. The route has a gorgeous backdrop of Bear Canyon, and so one might want to bring a camera for this one! Start at a large hueco below the first bolt. Climb straight up past four bolts on the beatiful face into a right facing corner and over the top to anchors. The crux of the right is located right at the fourth bolt, and consists of balancy moves of hidden sidepulls and edges to gain a small ledge below the final corner. The climbing up to this point is no harder than 5.10, and winds its way upward between a series of solid crimp-sized flakes and edges with plenty of feet. To descend rappel from the anchors (50 feet). This would most definitely receive three stars if it was not so short.
Protection
Bring four quickdraws and gear for the anchors if one is toproping.
Continue with onX Maps
Sign in with Facebook
Westminster, Colorado
Louisville, CO
Can you please give us specifics on the hardware that was placed: Fixe bolts or Powers bolts, what size 3/8 or 1/2, stainless or plated steel, hangers (fixe, metolius, or petzl) etc.???
Thanks,
Rob Palmer Feb 15, 2005
I didn't replace the bolts - just provided a belay for part of the day. The ASCA kindly donated the hardware; I suggest you contact one of to get the information you are looking for.
aceeldo.org/~aceeldoo/fhrc/
safeclimbing.org/
- Greg Feb 15, 2005
The ASCA provided all the hardware for the anchor replacement. Thanks ASCA!! Bolts are Fixe Triplex Stainless Steel, 75mm (3inch). Hangars are Fixe SS with powdercoat camo. Anchor is Fixe SS rap ring and Fixe Plated Steel Chain Anchor. All the visible gear is camo'd with red Rustoleum.
I didn't get a chance to climb the route, but it looks pretty sweet. The bolt spacing is sporty enough to keep your attention.
I welcome any constructive criticism/comments.
Greg brings up a good point regarding bringing a wrench. If you do, I suggest a ratchet with a 17 mm socket. However, I would strongly advise that you do not tighten the bolts unless the hangar appears to be loose. This is critical, as overtightening could result in a time bomb. The new bolts are Stainless Steel (SS), which is less forgiving than mild steel, in regards to proper "torque". In placing any bolt, I prefer not to err on the side of over "torque-ing".
I would venture to say that, being SS the new gear will last decades longer than the original gear.
Note that Street Hassle, Knot Carrot and Touch Monkey have received new gear. Thanks Terry, Greg, Kevin, and others. Feb 25, 2005
Around Boulder, CO
Eldorado Springs, CO
Boulder, CO
Jamestown, CO
Longmont, CO