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Cold Finger

5.7, Sport,  Avg: 2.4 from 101 votes
FA: unknown
Wyoming > Laramie Area > Vedauwoo > Turtle Rock > Fall Wall
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Description

This is a good, solid slab route. It might seem stiff if you're not accustomed to slabs. This climb makes a good start to the trad route "Hole."

Protection

5 or 6 (originally 4) quickdraws will get you to the two bolt anchor.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Stef taking the sharp end on this classic slab.
[Hide Photo] Stef taking the sharp end on this classic slab.
Eric shakes it out on Cold Finger.
[Hide Photo] Eric shakes it out on Cold Finger.
The route.
[Hide Photo] The route.
Wall shot showing the belay at the top of the pitch (if you want to continue).
[Hide Photo] Wall shot showing the belay at the top of the pitch (if you want to continue).
Looking down on Cold Finger.
[Hide Photo] Looking down on Cold Finger.
Tristan bundled up for Cold finger.
[Hide Photo] Tristan bundled up for Cold finger.
Tristan on Cold Finger.
[Hide Photo] Tristan on Cold Finger.
Mike Auldridge warming up his fingers on Cold Finger.
[Hide Photo] Mike Auldridge warming up his fingers on Cold Finger.
Looking for the next friction holds.
[Hide Photo] Looking for the next friction holds.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Ernie Port
Boulder, Colorado
[Hide Comment] This climb is steep, thin, and a bit runnout between bolts...but hey, that and the excellent friction is what made it so fun to lead! Jun 14, 2003
Mike Epke
Denver, CO
[Hide Comment] Fun climb and definitely a bit runout between bolts two and three. I believe there are only four bolts, then the anchor. Good climb to do then TR Drop Zone using the anchors above it. Enjoy. Jun 22, 2003
Chad Bowman
  5.7
[Hide Comment] This was my first outdoor lead and it was scary as all get out. I would definitely recommend it for a warm up to lead Drop Zone, or just to screw around with! May 5, 2005
Gary Schmidt
Boulder, CO
 
[Hide Comment] A fun route that will make you think because you actually have to climb a ways between bolts! Nicely sustained almost to the end. Jul 18, 2005
Chris Zeller
Boulder, CO
[Hide Comment] Great climb and actually very well protected. There was one or two more bolts there than were listed in the Heel-Toe guidebook.

Getting to Fall Wall is a bit dicey though for a beginner area. There are a few bouldery 4th-5th class moves required that you don't typiclly rope up for. Jun 7, 2006
Michael Molony
LEXINGTON
 
[Hide Comment] Great intro to slab climbing. Well bolted, with a stellar view from the top. Feb 25, 2008
[Hide Comment] Not that hard, 5.7 is about right... nice short route, though. Jul 2, 2010
Dave Bohn aka "Old Fart"
Fort Collins, CO
[Hide Comment] You people that rated these are idiots! This is at least a 5.10.

Are you sure you weren't on Gunga Din or Drop Zone?

Cold Fingers is an excellent, short, moderate route, with perfect edges and 5.7 at max. It's only "run out" if you're expecting a bolt a body length.

We've taken many climbing family picnics there, and all of the kids ages 6-12 run laps on Cold Fingers with a TR. They'd rather climb it than EO friction. Jul 2, 2010
Petsfed 00
Snohomish, WA
[Hide Comment] Well, I bobbled the top once, so it felt a lot more runout than it was. But it still felt like 5.7. I really think you were on a different route than Cold Fingers. Cold Fingers probably sees more sends than Edward's Crack, so its grade is just about as settled as it's gonna get. Jul 2, 2010
Rodger Raubach
Billings, MT
  5.7 PG13
[Hide Comment] This was rated 5.7 in 1968 when I first climbed it...years later it still feels like...5.7! Possibly the most popular route in Vedauwoo? Jul 20, 2010
Rodger Raubach
Billings, MT
  5.7 PG13
[Hide Comment] Does anyone else that's posting here remember the infamous "beat-on" placed by Clarence Serfoss to protect the initial step up onto the slab? It was there when I first climbed the route in 1968, and it was still there 4 years later. I'd be interested to know what ever became of it. Aug 28, 2012
Rodger Raubach
Billings, MT
  5.7 PG13
[Hide Comment] As originally done, there were only 4 bolts on the slab. It was a bit run out to the first one...maybe 15 feet. Aug 31, 2012
Arlo F Niederer
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.7
[Hide Comment] Only four bolts.

The beat-on (copperhead) wasn't there when I first led this in 1974.

And yes, it's only 5.7. If you haven't climbed much slab and are used to sport areas (including Beehive), it will seem harder. But with a little more slab climbing the rating is accurate.

5.7 granite slab climbing - good feet but small hand holds compared to sport climbs. "Trust your feet!" Oct 1, 2012
Rob Davies UK
Cheshire, UK
  5.8 PG13
[Hide Comment] UK visitors be warned: this would get a technical grade of 5b at the Etive Slabs. Oct 16, 2013
SGabe
Spearfish, SD
[Hide Comment] We use to have our high school climbing class do this route back in the early '80s. Great route. Use to do in my bare feet back in the day. Nov 7, 2017