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A Midsummer Night's Dream
5.11a YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 3.2 from 172
votes
Routes in North Chasm View Wall
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827 Go! (AKA Job Site Dogs) T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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A Midsummer Night's Dream T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Air Guitar T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b R |
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Air Jordan T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b PG13 |
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Air Voyage T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Airiana Grande T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c R |
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Apparition, The T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R |
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Black Sheep, The T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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Bloodsport T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Colorado Welcome Party T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R |
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Cruise, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Diagonal, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Dylan Wall T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Eighth Voyage of Sinbad T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Free Hallucinogen Wall, The T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c R |
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Free Nose, The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Goss-Logan T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R |
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Hallucinogen Wall, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A3 R |
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Happy Ending T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Highway 61 Revisited T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Journey Home T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Kachina Wings T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Kama Sutra T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Leisure Climb T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Movable Stoned Voyage T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Moveable Feast T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Musical Partners T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Qualgeist T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R |
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Scenic Cruise, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Stoned Oven T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Straight Out Da Projects T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R |
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Trilogy T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Twisted T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a C0 |
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Walk of Shame T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c V16 8C+ X |
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White Devil TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A4 |
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| Type: | Trad, 6 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | Ed Webster, Lauren Husted, 7/83; FFA: Ed Webster, Chester Dreiman, 9/83 |
| Page Views: | 12,428 total · 44/month |
| Shared By: | Steve Levin on Jul 12, 2001 · Updates |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
A Midsummer's Night Dream is an excellent, short climb which lies left of Leisure Climb. The climbing is varied and sustained at the 5.9 level, with a short section of low-end 5.11 on P2. With the "Sex Comedy" finish, a great pitch of 5.10 can be done instead of trending right into the very mediocre exit pitches of the Leisure Climb. Afternoon shade, a short "approach", and fast, well-protected climbing add up to a nice afternoon romp, something to do if you arrive at the Black in mid-morning and feel compelled to leave the beer cooler and campground. It is far better climbing then either Leisure Climb or Musical Partners (its neighbor to the left).
Locate the middle of 3 obvious crack systems just below the 2nd rap in Cruise Gully. Scramble 30 feet 3rd Class to a ledge to start.
Pitch 1 is nice 5.8/5.9 corner and crack climbing. Belay on a small ledge.
Pitch 2 climbs the crack and bulge, tricky, strenuous, but good pro, moving up and slightly right past a fixed pin to a belay stance.
Pitch 3 climbs excellent 5.8/5.9 up a wall right of the prominent, right-facing corner (some interesting fixed stuff, including a beak!), into the corner past some overhangs, then steps left to belay (with a 70m rope you can keep going to next belay).
Pitch 4 climbs 5.6 rock, clean and fun, up the buttress - do not trend right into Leisure Climb - to a "green" wall below a steep, sharp, hand-sized crack formed by a flake splitting the vertical gray wall above (this is "fresh" stone, i.e. somewhat newly fractured).
Pitch 5 climbs the splitter, a bit of jamming, liebacking, etc., stepping right around a small pinnacle, then up to a short, 5.10- face move to finish on the large terrace. Have doubles to 3.5", and perhaps a 4" cam, for this pitch...great exit pitch of 5.10.
Exit: walk left 150', around the corner to the exit slab to the actual rim.
Whereas Leisure Climb and Musical Partners are forgettable, mediocre routes, this one is very worthwhile - even worth repeating (a distinction in the Black).
Locate the middle of 3 obvious crack systems just below the 2nd rap in Cruise Gully. Scramble 30 feet 3rd Class to a ledge to start.
Pitch 1 is nice 5.8/5.9 corner and crack climbing. Belay on a small ledge.
Pitch 2 climbs the crack and bulge, tricky, strenuous, but good pro, moving up and slightly right past a fixed pin to a belay stance.
Pitch 3 climbs excellent 5.8/5.9 up a wall right of the prominent, right-facing corner (some interesting fixed stuff, including a beak!), into the corner past some overhangs, then steps left to belay (with a 70m rope you can keep going to next belay).
Pitch 4 climbs 5.6 rock, clean and fun, up the buttress - do not trend right into Leisure Climb - to a "green" wall below a steep, sharp, hand-sized crack formed by a flake splitting the vertical gray wall above (this is "fresh" stone, i.e. somewhat newly fractured).
Pitch 5 climbs the splitter, a bit of jamming, liebacking, etc., stepping right around a small pinnacle, then up to a short, 5.10- face move to finish on the large terrace. Have doubles to 3.5", and perhaps a 4" cam, for this pitch...great exit pitch of 5.10.
Exit: walk left 150', around the corner to the exit slab to the actual rim.
Whereas Leisure Climb and Musical Partners are forgettable, mediocre routes, this one is very worthwhile - even worth repeating (a distinction in the Black).
Photos
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