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West Face

5.9+, Trad,  Avg: 3.1 from 180 votes
FA: Jim & Dave Erickson (FFA)
Colorado > Boulder > Boulder Canyon > Bell Buttress M… > Bell Buttress - Main…
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Description

Looking for a well-protected, challenging 5.9 crack to climb? Eldo feeling a bit too greasy in this heat? If so, the shady "West Face" (a misnomer- this is a crack climb for the most part) route on Bell Buttress is for you. Locate this little beauty as the right-most of three crack systems right of Cosmosis. Climb the crack in the shallow right-facing corner, over a roof at a big flake, to a 2-bolt belay.

Rappel (watch you don't miss the ledge!) or continue up the system to the top of the rock (a bit of wandering around). Solid 5.9!

Protection

Doubles, wired nuts, TCUs to 3" cams. A 50m rope is OK for lowering.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Ross, leading West Face.
[Hide Photo] Ross, leading West Face.
Unknown climber on West Face.
[Hide Photo] Unknown climber on West Face.
Joseffa Meir follows up the 'West Face (5.9)' of Bell Buttress in Boulder Canyon. In the Background, Thom Engelbach leads 'Cosmosis (5.9+).' Photo by Tony Bubb, 2003.
[Hide Photo] Joseffa Meir follows up the 'West Face (5.9)' of Bell Buttress in Boulder Canyon. In the Background, Thom Engelbach leads 'Cosmosis (5.9+).' Photo by Tony Bubb, 2003.
Looking down West Crack. West Face is to the climber's right of West Crack.
[Hide Photo] Looking down West Crack. West Face is to the climber's right of West Crack.
Unknown climber on West Face.
[Hide Photo] Unknown climber on West Face.
Bell Buttress West Face, great warm up, Tom Jensen leading.
[Hide Photo] Bell Buttress West Face, great warm up, Tom Jensen leading.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] Great climb. A must do! Before the roof place some bomber pro, because the moves over the roof are scary since all I could find to protect them is small wires (2-#3s). Yikes!! Jul 25, 2001
[Hide Comment] I have to agree....went and led this yesterday and it is definately one of the best pitches of crack climbing in Boulder Canyon... exciting, steep, sustained, FUN.... The part above roof is a bit thin, but easy stemming will get you to the anchors if you stay left (easier than it looks/seems). RECOMMENDED.... Jul 26, 2001
Michael Walker
Loveland, CO
[Hide Comment] This one is rising as one of my favorite pitches in Boulder Canyon. I absolutely loved it. There are so many good moves on this climb (fingerlocks, stems, laybacks, a couple roofs to manueaver - the second and crux roof is a GAS) that I had a perm-a-grin all afternoon.

Three stars. Cosmosis drew me to the area, West Face and West Crack will have me coming back! Jul 13, 2002
[Hide Comment] If you want to continue . . . climb straight up on easy terrain past the rap anchor to a ledge. Above you is a lonely piton and not much pro -- that's 15, "Headwall." Instead, traverse R thru a bit of brush, then up the dihedral. Good pro, fun roof, then very easy climbing. P2 is just over 100' Jul 19, 2002
Ernie Port
Boulder, Colorado
 
[Hide Comment] Led this tonight...IMO it's the best (9) trad route on Bell and ranks high as best at the grade in the entire canyon. The move right off the top of the small pinacle just past the roof is awesome...took me awhile to find the hidden hold up high. Great position there. The entire route is well-protected and interesting. A must do.... Sep 10, 2003
[Hide Comment] About ten feet up the route a shallow right facing corner starts. This corner lasts for about ten feet, at which point you are standing beneath the roof. Near the top of where the corner runs out, on the left face, a series of flakes exist. The first one I encountered was well chalked but extremely loose and I avoided using it. After finishing the route, my friend ripped this leg-sized flake loose with very minimal effort. The scariest part about leaving this thing in place would be what would happen to the belayer directly below. So.... the route has not changed in quality or difficulty (you'd be nuts to use that flake, but the chalk indicated that lost of people had and it was only a matter of time before someone yarded on it just a little too much), and should be cleaner, but just be aware of that spot. JGH Sep 22, 2003
pfwein Weinberg
Boulder, CO
  5.9+
[Hide Comment] This is rated 9+ in my guide (Boulder Climbs North), which I think is accurate. Jun 4, 2006
Byron Murray
Boulder, CO
[Hide Comment] The West Face contains one of the best knee bars that I've ever done on natural rock. The knee bar is of the horizontal type. Your left toe fits into a notch and your left knee is pushed up against a corner just below the first roof. At this position, you can comfortably place a RP and a number 5 BD nut to protect the roof. The knee bar provides a nice rest for a sustained old school 5.9 route. Jun 29, 2009
slim

  5.9+
[Hide Comment] Yeah, I kind of thought so, too. Jun 30, 2009
Guy Kenny Jr
Boulder, CO
 
[Hide Comment] Great climb. Sort of runout, mildly, after the roof.

Prod. Apr 29, 2012
[Hide Comment] There is a placement for a #0 Metolius in the crack on the right side of the fin when you are standing on the pedestal before pulling the roof. The placement is relatively good, and it gives the leader a piece at the roof. Oddly, "West Face" is much more of a pure crack climb (below the roof) than "West Crack," which uses the face much more. Jun 9, 2012
Joe Brannan
Lyons, CO
5.9+
[Hide Comment] I've climbed quite a bit of 9 in the area recently, and this was a step up in difficulty. Felt more challenging than Dead Can Dance on Avalon or Hair City on the Bastille. Also harder than West Crack IMO. Jul 11, 2013
Brad Burns
Story, WY
[Hide Comment] Really great route. Super fun movement and great gear till the roof. You can get a really great #1 BD cam under the roof, and some awkward marginal gear at the hollow flake before the crux. There is a loose rock that is chalked up at the roof. It’s a big jug, but it will totally rip out of there at some point. The crux is a little awkward, and it’s probably a 10’ section before you can get good gear again. Really fun! I felt that this was harder than Cosmosis physically, but 5.9+ or .10a is fair. Aug 4, 2021
Samuel Li
Boulder, CO
 
[Hide Comment] The chalked-up juggy loose rock at the roof is kinda stable - it'll be there for at least 1-2 seasons, I think. You can jam your hand in the space above the jug, so no need to pull it. Aug 11, 2021
Will Myers
Golden
[Hide Comment] I was convinced this was a sandbag until I repeated it. The holds are huge where you need them, but it can be difficult to commit and find them. Consider anchoring the belayer to the nice flake at the start. Oct 30, 2022
Weston Hamilton
Denver, CO
 
[Hide Comment] This was challenging. My partner and I onsighted Cosmosis but had to hang on the middle section of this. We just need to be better at crack. This route does take a fair amount of stemming on small slab by features to the right and some foot jamming. Mostly it’s hand and finger jamming in odd positions. Then turning the roof feels solid 5.9+, it’s an old school route. Cosmosis is soft by comparison, I think. Both should be 9+. May 28, 2024