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Routes in Mickey Mouse Wall
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Asahi T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Astral Traveller T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Beagle's Ear T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Boxcar Willie S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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Captain Beyond T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Culp's Fault T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Dark Matter T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Don't Panic, It's Organic T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Eagle's Bier T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Fake Right, Go Left T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Flakes T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Fluffy Bunny T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c R |
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Green Dihedral T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Hamburger Helper T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Krystal Klyr T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c X |
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Lifestream T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Mausoleum T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Mighty Mouse S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Monks in the Gym T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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Oblique Streak T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Offset, The T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Parallel Journey T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Perilous Journey TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c X |
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Perversion T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Red Arete, The S 5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a |
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Red Dihedral T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c R |
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Shiva's Dance T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Sidewinder T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Simian's Way T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Skink's Lip T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b X |
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Stigmata T,S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Three Mousketeers, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Turnabout T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Unnamed Dihedral T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Vergin' on Perversion T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R |
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Vulcans Don't Lie T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Zambezi T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Zen Effects S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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| Type: |
Trad, 350 ft (106 m), 3 pitches
Fixed Hardware
(1) |
| FA: | Layton Kor, Bob Culp, George Hurley and others, 1963 |
| Page Views: | 18,260 total · 64/month |
| Shared By: | Richard M. Wright on Jun 26, 2001 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Private Property issues
Details
The West Bank / Wild West / Secret Crag has been problematic for years due to access concerns. There have been negative encounters with gun-toting landowners who have alleged that the entire mountain is on private property. Typical approaches involve brief crossing of railroad property which appears to be prohibited.
Exact demarcation of property boundaries are not always clear. When in doubt, be discrete or polite.
Do not park your vehicle near the railroad tracks near Plainview. It is a well-known irritant to Plainview residents.
Exact demarcation of property boundaries are not always clear. When in doubt, be discrete or polite.
Do not park your vehicle near the railroad tracks near Plainview. It is a well-known irritant to Plainview residents.
Access Issue: Permit require to access? Closed for raptor nesting from February 1 through Aug. 12? - each year
Details
Per Tony B: according to this recently published map, Micky Mouse Wall is now in an HCA and requires a permit to visit: maps.bouldercolorado.gov/wi….
Update from the Flatirons Climbing Council: due to late nesting of peregrine falcons this year (2021), this area is projected to be closed until ~Aug. 12, 2021
Information on OSMP wildlife closures, which help to protect sensitive habitats, can be viewed at:
bouldercolorado.gov/service…
maps.bouldercolorado.gov/wi…
Mickey Mouse wall is generally closed for raptor nesting from February 1 through July 31. Click here bouldercolorado.gov/osmp/cl… for more details.
Update from the Flatirons Climbing Council: due to late nesting of peregrine falcons this year (2021), this area is projected to be closed until ~Aug. 12, 2021
Information on OSMP wildlife closures, which help to protect sensitive habitats, can be viewed at:
bouldercolorado.gov/service…
maps.bouldercolorado.gov/wi…
Mickey Mouse wall is generally closed for raptor nesting from February 1 through July 31. Click here bouldercolorado.gov/osmp/cl… for more details.
Description
Possibly one of the all time classic routes of its grade, Perversion fires up the central tower in three pitches of glorious climbing on some of the best rock in the Front Range. Below the central tower is a large block - climb up left on talus around the block and then over to the right side for a cozy belay that looks up a system of left facing dihedrals all the way to the top.
P1. Start off on the right side of the block in a rough finger and hand crack. This is largely 5.7/5.8 until just before the next ledge where the line kicks up a bit of 5.9 on very good gear. Get to the ledge and move right 15 feet to the base of the dihedral. 75 feet, 5.9.
P2. At the ledge (with a tree), scramble right to a point below the shallow dihedral. Fire up the left dihedral with 2 fabulous cracks for 25 feet. Traverse to the right on large blocks about 10 feet to another dihedral with a good crack. Cruise up this crack and then continue over broken rock with good pro to a nice belay ledge. There are two large bolts about 10 feet right of the crack. 150 feet, 5.8.
P3. Continue up fabulous climbing in the corner with solid 5.8 move separated by many excellent rests. Head for the monstrous roof and swing out right on jug-o-rama holds with bomb-proof gear in the corner at 5.6. 120 feet, 5.8.
Descent: downclimb to the left (east & north towards trees) then back (west) to the large notch (skip the first, smaller notch). Make an 80 foot rap to slings, then a 60 foot rap to a large tree, then a final (third) rap 60 feet right to the base of the climb.
Per Carl Sampurna: alternatively you can rappel hard right to reach another bolted anchor. From there, rappel down to the top of P1 and a tree with cord and a quicklink (check the cord!), and rappel once more down to the base of the route.
The original descent info mentioned slings for the 2nd rap, which is now bolts, but they'll be an awkward traverse away if you rap straight down from the top, hence the suggestion to veer to the right.
P1. Start off on the right side of the block in a rough finger and hand crack. This is largely 5.7/5.8 until just before the next ledge where the line kicks up a bit of 5.9 on very good gear. Get to the ledge and move right 15 feet to the base of the dihedral. 75 feet, 5.9.
P2. At the ledge (with a tree), scramble right to a point below the shallow dihedral. Fire up the left dihedral with 2 fabulous cracks for 25 feet. Traverse to the right on large blocks about 10 feet to another dihedral with a good crack. Cruise up this crack and then continue over broken rock with good pro to a nice belay ledge. There are two large bolts about 10 feet right of the crack. 150 feet, 5.8.
P3. Continue up fabulous climbing in the corner with solid 5.8 move separated by many excellent rests. Head for the monstrous roof and swing out right on jug-o-rama holds with bomb-proof gear in the corner at 5.6. 120 feet, 5.8.
Descent: downclimb to the left (east & north towards trees) then back (west) to the large notch (skip the first, smaller notch). Make an 80 foot rap to slings, then a 60 foot rap to a large tree, then a final (third) rap 60 feet right to the base of the climb.
Per Carl Sampurna: alternatively you can rappel hard right to reach another bolted anchor. From there, rappel down to the top of P1 and a tree with cord and a quicklink (check the cord!), and rappel once more down to the base of the route.
The original descent info mentioned slings for the 2nd rap, which is now bolts, but they'll be an awkward traverse away if you rap straight down from the top, hence the suggestion to veer to the right.
Photos
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