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Nightcap

5.9, Trad, TR, 100 ft (30 m),  Avg: 2.8 from 312 votes
FA: Dan Hare and Allen Wood, '79
Colorado > Boulder > Boulder Canyon > Happy Hour Crag
Warning Access Issue: Seasonal Closures 2025 - Bitty Buttress, Blob, Eagle Rock &, Security Risk are closed for raptor nesting DetailsDrop down

Description

This is a wonderful route. Start about 10-15 feet right of Dementia, work up nebulous terrain to gain a right-facing area with easy cracks. Work up into a thin crack that follows through a bulge. Stem and shimmy your way up and gain a nice, albeit short finger crack to the top. There is now a 2 bolt anchor from which you can watch the sun set over the canyon.

This is one of my favorite routes in the Canyon, and it is better than its neighbor Grins.

Protection

A standard rack, no real big gear necessary, up to a #2 Camalot and a few mid-size hexes. Smaller nuts/cams protect the business. A green Alien will protect the crux very well. There originally were no bolts at the top. Bring something to sling a large boulder and a larger cam or two for the belay.

Eds. there is a natural thread at the anchor.

Per Carl Sampurna: there is now a two-bolt anchor at the top, shared with Malign and Skid Row.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

At the crux.
[Hide Photo] At the crux.
7. Last Call, 9+.<br>
8. Dementia, 10a.<br>
9. Malign, 7.<br>
10. Cheers aka Thrill of the Chaise, 10a.<br>
11. Tipsey, 9.<br>
12. Nightcap, 9-.
[Hide Photo] 7. Last Call, 9+. 8. Dementia, 10a. 9. Malign, 7. 10. Cheers aka Thrill of the Chaise, 10a. 11. Tipsey, 9. 12. Nightcap, 9-.
Nightcap and Malign.
[Hide Photo] Nightcap and Malign.
Being south-facing, Happy Hour is a great winter-time destination.
[Hide Photo] Being south-facing, Happy Hour is a great winter-time destination.
Marga Powell at the crux.  She has a good red Alien in the crack in the corner.  Just above is a short hand crack that will take a #1 Camalot.
[Hide Photo] Marga Powell at the crux. She has a good red Alien in the crack in the corner. Just above is a short hand crack that will take a #1 Camalot.
Marga Powell at the the traverse to the crux corner.  Get good small cams for pro before moving right.
[Hide Photo] Marga Powell at the the traverse to the crux corner. Get good small cams for pro before moving right.
Lance on Nightcap.
[Hide Photo] Lance on Nightcap.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] This is a fun route. It's a little easier than a 5.9, the only 5.9 sections is the small overhang 3/4 the way up. Even thought this site says that it's a trad route, you could easily top rope it with an anchor between a big rock and a tree. Aug 26, 2001
Jeff Lockyer
Canmore, AB
[Hide Comment] I agree with the 3 stars for sure. The 5.9 section is very short indeed, also you dont need to build an anchor if you just run your rope back a little to a tree up and left and belay from here. You can scramble down and right to get to the anchors for 'grins' and rappell or downclimb. A very enjoyable route with a mix of everything. Enjoy.. Nov 14, 2001
[Hide Comment] You might like having RPs for this climb, because the part below the crux is a bit tricky as well. A really good climb and a lot better than it looks from the ground. Sep 25, 2003
Eric Goltz
Boulder, CO
[Hide Comment] Right you are, Jay; this pitch is a lot more interesting than it looks from the ground. Sep 25, 2003
Brian Weinstein
  5.9-
[Hide Comment] Fun route, a good one to warm up on before hitting some of the other moderates. It didn't seem of very sustained nature. The crux was short, some interesting little bulges on the granite. Plenty of gear placements, seems like a good first 9 lead. Overall, Happy Hour is a great place to work on placing gear to your heart's delight while being able to challenge yourself. Nov 12, 2003
[Hide Comment] Definitely a nice route, not very sustained (much like Grins in that regard) but does have some tricky moves. Nov 17, 2003
David HH
CR, CO
  5.9
[Hide Comment] Great Route! I protected the crux with a green Alien, I actually took a very clean fall through the crux and the Alien was bomber. Jun 10, 2006
Joe Brannan
Lyons, CO
[Hide Comment] First 5.9 lead and it was awesome. Gear is easy and abundant. Had to hang on the rope a bit at the crux but eventually sacked up and made the move. Aug 27, 2008
[Hide Comment] Fun route with great movement. You'll find that the crux is evident, but not in the way of a good send; get high feet. Jun 14, 2009
Count Chockula
Littleton, CO
[Hide Comment] I also had some trouble with the crux move in the corner. I may have plugged up the key finger lock for the right hand with a #0.5, so I French-freed the move to get my feet high enough to snag a good left hand finger lock and I was out of the corner.

I think I made the move harder than it needed to be, though. Sep 12, 2010
Tim Farkas
Albuquerque, NM
  5.9-
[Hide Comment] Really nice climb! Highly recommended. Well protected, long and fun.

I recommend bouldering to the obvious 3 inch crack about 25 feet up and plugging a Camalot #4. Jun 12, 2013
Caleb
Ward, CO
[Hide Comment] There is now a two bolt anchor with rings just below the top of this climb. Sep 29, 2014
Paul Hunnicutt
Boulder, CO
 
[Hide Comment] It is possible to plug in a 0.5 Camalot at the crux move. If you set it low enough, there should still be room for a good finger lock above it. At least there was for me. A 0.4 might also work well. Fun climb! Sep 29, 2015
Larry Shaw
Boulder, CO
  5.9
[Hide Comment] Fun crack climbing on the lower half and an interesting 10' crux section up top. A 60m rope is long enough from the anchors, can safely walk around to the left of the crag and set up a toprope if desired. Great option for a first 5.9 trad lead. BD .4-.5 cams work well at the crux. Apr 23, 2018
Patrik Britt
Fort Collins, CO
[Hide Comment] This is a solid 100ft route that is easy to toprope. There are bolts up at the top, you can walk right up and set your gear up. If you are looking to toprope at Happy Hour, this is about the only accessible set of bolts, so bring a sling so you can anchor the other routes on the nicely available trees. There is a ton of poison ivy at the base of the trail, so be cautious. This particular route is a 5.9, but it's also 100 ft of climbing and has sections that short people will not be able to get past on the actual "route". My girlfriend and I regularly climb routes up to 5.12, and she couldn't stay on the actual route. So personally I feel like this could be a 5.9plus or 10 minus. Really an awesome climb! Jul 3, 2019
Alex Mandrila
Boulder, CO
[Hide Comment] Lower-off hooks added, courtesy ASCA. Feb 21, 2022
Neale Druffel
Fort Collins, CO
[Hide Comment] One of the better routes on the wall. Gear is pretty straightforward and smaller. A couple 0.3 and a 0.2 BD Z4 as well as Metolius 00 protected the run up to and through the crux for me. May 8, 2022