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Routes in Sheep's Nose
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10 Sheep and a Goat T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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An Apostle or Two T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Army Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Assassination Slab T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Chinook T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Culling The Herd S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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Direct Line T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Evening Stroll T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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For Wimps Only T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Friction T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Golden Fleece T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Golden Spike, The T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Hard Monkeys T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Harpoon The Manta Ray T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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It Is Time to Space aka The Sheep Eat Grass T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Lamb's Prey T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Lost in Space Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Old Man Route T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Ozone Direct T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Pimp, The T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Pit of Despair, The V0 4 R |
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Psycho Babble T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Seamis T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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Sheep Dipped S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Sheep in Wolves Clothing T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Sheep with a Silver Tail T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Sheep's Dare T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Sheer Sheep Attack T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Southeast Face T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Space Cadet T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Surplus Killing S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Ten Years After T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Unknown T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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When Sheep are Nervous T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
| Type: | Trad, 2 pitches |
| FA: | unknown as an aid route, FFA: Leonard Coyne, Dennis Jackson, & Mark Rolofson, December 1975 |
| Page Views: | 9,615 total · 34/month |
| Shared By: | Darin Lang on Jun 9, 2001 · Updates |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Description
Ten Years After is an excellent, basically one-pitch climb located on the South face of Sheep's Nose. Locating the route is straightforward - it is in the massive, right-facing dihedral on the left side of Sheep's Nose as you approach.
P1 - climb straight up the obvious crack in the dihedral, using a few jams, laybacks where necessary, and a couple of opportune face holds. The entire pitch is fairly sustained, but the crux probably comes in the first 25 feet, until you move past the obvious, wide section. The gear placements on this section are more than adequate but not quite as straightforward as it appears from the base - the crack flares to the inside. The upper section protects well with nuts and small cams. We rapped off from a nest of slings at the top of P1 (60m rope was plenty, I suspect you would be fine with a 50m).
P2 continues up the dihedral. There is one bouldery move right off the belay (you can easily protect the belay though), followed by a long 5.easy ramp for the rest of the pitch that takes you to the walk-off. The first moves are fun, but that's where the climbing basically ends.
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