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Leisure Climb

5.9, Trad, 6 pitches, Grade III,  Avg: 2.1 from 81 votes
FA: Ed Webster
Colorado > Gunnison > Black Canyon of… > N Rim Routes > N Chasm View Wall
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Description

This is fun and devious route which ascends the shortest section of North Chasm View Wall. It looks like a pile from the ground but has pretty good climbing and exposure on the first three pitches. The final pitches are very low-angled and loose but go pretty fast if you find the easiest line. Be wary of climbing beneath another party on this route, and also be aware that there have apparently been some bad accidents on the crux pitch which is runout and also easy to get off route onto harder climbing.

2022 Edit: perhaps the most common way to do this route these days is traverse into A Midsummer Night's Dream for its great 5.9+ third pitch, a long airy corner with good gear and lots of jugs and stem rests. Then, once on the terrace, do the 9+ direct finish, which is similar in difficulty, quality, and protection. Doing the route with both of those pitches makes for a reasonably protected outing that is one of the better moderates in the Black.

Go down the Cruise Gully, and find the route shortly after emerging from the second rappel. The first pitch is identified by a right-facing 5.8 corner with a wide crack up high (avoid the harder crack systems and roofs to the left). Access P1 by scrambling up and left on blocky third class to a ledge.

P1. Ascend the large corner, and belay on a grassy ledge at left.

P2. Take the obvious, acute left-facing corner above the belay (5.8). At its top, angle right on a ramp then back left to a small belay ledge below a flake system.

P3. This is the devious crux: go up a left-facing flake/finger crack, toward a triangular overlap/roof. Angle rightwards where the corner ends, and climb further up a thin crack past the right end of the overlap, to a sloping ledge. It is easier but scarier to place pro in the crack and then traverse a ways back left to turn the roof on bigger holds, then run it out on ~5.7 terrain to the ledge above. Staying with the crack the whole way as it dies out is the more obvious line, but probably 5.10-something and still a bit spicy.

Probably a better variation to this pitch (certainly better-protected) is to traverse up and left (easy but a little runout) into the large right-facing corner of A Midsummer Night's Dream's third pitch, which is great climbing. It's slightly harder than P3 of Leisure Climb but is better protected. It's also easier to stretch the rope a bit farther than on Leisure Climb proper.

P4. Go right up easy ground a short ways (to avoid a steep section) then back left up a long, broken and bushy corner. Belay at its top, or (some simul-climbing required) go directly up fun face-climbing for about 35 feet to another good ledge.

P5. Go easily along the base of a steep cliff on 3rd Class, then climb up a chimney to belay on the right end of huge, forested ledge (hard to see from the start of the pitch). If doing the Leisure-Summer version, you can just barely combine 4 & 5 with a 70-meter rope.

P6 (optional direct finish): walk left along the ledge 200-300, passing the Happy Ending and the huge corner of Kama Sutra. Around the corner from those harder finishes, look for a nice fingers to hands crack that leads up to a ledge with some blocky overhanging peg above. This 9+ direct finish has lots of climbing at the grade, but also lots of rests, and protects well--similar in those respects to P3 of MND. The climbing is great and shouldn't be missed if time permits.

Otherwise, continue walking along the ledge to the left (west) until an easy 5th Class low-angle corner/groove accesses the canyon rim.

Protection

A standard rack with micro-nuts and micro-cams for the crux pitch and a #4 Camalot with optional #5 (new sizes) for pitch one.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

A route overlay of Leisure-Summer.
[Hide Photo] A route overlay of Leisure-Summer.
Leisure/ Summer traverse.  With long slings we linked this into the steep 5.9 pitch making this route 3 1/4 pitches.
[Hide Photo] Leisure/ Summer traverse. With long slings we linked this into the steep 5.9 pitch making this route 3 1/4 pitches.
The top of pitch 2 on our line.
[Hide Photo] The top of pitch 2 on our line.
Pitch 2.
[Hide Photo] Pitch 2.
Boots on the crux roof pitch.  Photos Taken May 31, 2001.
[Hide Photo] Boots on the crux roof pitch. Photos Taken May 31, 2001.
DT following Leisure-Summer. We finished with Sex Comedy and Direct Finish.
[Hide Photo] DT following Leisure-Summer. We finished with Sex Comedy and Direct Finish.
Way off route.  After P5, we went up and right instead of hard left.
[Hide Photo] Way off route. After P5, we went up and right instead of hard left.
Direct finish pitch (5.9/9+). Pitch 6.
[Hide Photo] Direct finish pitch (5.9/9+). Pitch 6.
Pitch 5 follows the 5.6 corner to the right of the arete.
[Hide Photo] Pitch 5 follows the 5.6 corner to the right of the arete.
Pitch 3 of A Midsummer Night's Dream (for the Leisure-Summer version of the route).
[Hide Photo] Pitch 3 of A Midsummer Night's Dream (for the Leisure-Summer version of the route).
Mark Sokol on the third pitch of Leisure.  This gully is easy 5th class, just after the crux roof. At this point we linked up with the next pitch of Midsummer Nights Dream.
[Hide Photo] Mark Sokol on the third pitch of Leisure. This gully is easy 5th class, just after the crux roof. At this point we linked up with the next pitch of Midsummer Nights Dream.
Phil Wortmann on the crux pitch
[Hide Photo] Phil Wortmann on the crux pitch

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Michael Komarnitsky
Seattle, WA
[Hide Comment] Interesting.... I could have used this two days ago! A variation is what we did, albiet unintended. After P2, traverse left, up the small left facing corner, then continue straight up heading for the center of the roof following thin but nice flakes. There's a #5 stopper that's fixed. Clip that, use a #00 Friend underneath the roof, and go for it! Probably 9+.... plus if the #00 blows (which it probably will - I'm guessing that's why the stopper was fixed) on a fall from the unprotected face climbing above the roof, you're looking at a 50 footer. Brian Boots did this lead with rope drag so bad it almost pulled him off on the final mantle to the belay ledge. Note that this variation leaves you left of the route (we think), so move hard right from here to rejoin the route. TR is coming.... Jun 2, 2001
Michael Komarnitsky
Seattle, WA
[Hide Comment] A TR I wrote about this climb is at myke.komar.org/june2001/may… ... Jun 6, 2001
[Hide Comment] Figuring out the crux is tricky, but I did it like Steve describes. Other than the 20 feet of climbing at the crux, this route is a pile. Don't do it. Find something else to climb, go fishing, drink beer, talk to the rangers... May 4, 2002
[Hide Comment] The large photo identifying the route with the white and black lines is mismarked. Just to the right of where the first and second white lines meet is a black streak. Straight above the streak are bushes (dissected by second white line), and directly above the bushes are two roofs originating from the same R-facing system.

The route trends right a short bit from the bushes but veers back left, eventually turning the lower roof towards its R side (as is evidenced by the photo labeled, "Boots on the crux roof pitch"); more of an overlap at that point. The route then trends up and right. The black line is entirely wrong as it would have the climber tackling a 12' roof (in the overexposed portion of the lined photo). Anyone care to confirm?

I did not find this route to be a pile. After all this is The Black; an acquired taste. May 8, 2002
Charles Vernon
Colorado megalopolis
  5.9
[Hide Comment] Anonymous coward,

You are absolutley right, and Myke and I have been arguing this point over e-mail. The lines on both the lower and upper part of photo are mis-marked. Myke must've had a bad experience in the Black, and is therefore repressing those memories by mismarking this photo so that the scary pitches will be removed from his subconscious. Just kidding Myke!

Also, thank you for attesting to the quality of this route, on a relative Black Canyon scale. I don't understand the belief that all these hard-core people have with it (everyone, this is not an attempt to start a flame war!)--is it just because it's an easy route? I don't think so, I would even repeat it (and I for one thought it was just as good as Maiden Voyage, although not anywhere near as good as Escape Artist). May 8, 2002
[Hide Comment] Oops, that should read, "I don't understand the beef...", not "belief" in the second paragraph there. May 8, 2002
[Hide Comment] Charles,

You are confusing the matter. The line on the lower portion is correct! The first pitch does, in fact, take the prominent R-facing as noted, before steeping L to the bushes (where the first white line ends and the second begins). The second pitch takes a L-facing (indiscernible in the photo) to the next clump of bushes. The first two pitches can be done as one 60m pitch. May 8, 2002
Charles Vernon
Colorado megalopolis
  5.9
[Hide Comment] Sorry, I guess I meant the lower and upper portions of the climb overall (rather than the photo), as in the lower hard pitches and the upper 5.easy.loose stuff (which is represented as going over a massive roof where the climbing should actually be about 5.0). The first two pitches are correct, I wasn't disputing that, but on the third pitch, the line goes way off to the right, where it should only take a mild dip to the right and then come back above the first two pitches.

I don't really think anyone would actually try to climb that roof, but routefinding is a bit confusing on the crux pitch as it is and this photo could conceivably add to someone's confusion, at least when planning for the climb. May 8, 2002
Michael Komarnitsky
Seattle, WA
[Hide Comment] Charles and I will be meeting soon and haggle over a beer and redo the picture. Please disregard conversation on the matter until that has been done. May 8, 2002
[Hide Comment] It's a pile. Do Midsummer's Night Dream -- way better climbing. May 24, 2002
alpinglow
city, state
[Hide Comment] This route is really half of an OK route and then equal amounts of choss...climb something else. Midsummer like Brad says. Jul 20, 2002
[Hide Comment] The route is good, in my opinion. There are some fun pitches down low, and though the top is not five star quality, it is still a worth while excursion for those looking for an easier climb in the Black Canyon. It is easy to couple with Maiden Voyage for a full day of climbing. That being said, the crux is serious and should not be underestimated by the faint at heart. I found a descent #3 placement in a horizontal pocket at the lip of the roof which was far more encouraging than the cam down below and right. If you are a solid climber and want to take a friend out climbing w/ less experience. this is a good route. Many intermediate climbers will enjoy climbing (read following) most every pitch on this route. Apr 28, 2003
[Hide Comment] Maiden Voyage is a way better climb at a similar grade. Much more straightforward, too. Aug 24, 2004
[Hide Comment] This is my least favorite climb in the B.C. Prehaps I am tainted by a few past shadows. For me this route doesn't even rate the distinction of"pile". I never appreciated the names "Leisure" Climb or "Casual" Route, or for that matter "Cruise".As Jimmy Newberry so succinctly put it long ago... "It's desperate in the Black". There is nothing "casual" or "Leisurely" in the B.C. Even when compared to the "desperates". I for one (as well as several other of the old time Gunnison climbers) felt that "misnomers" like these were,at best a disservice to the area and at worst an invitation to disaster. This proved to be the case for one of my other shadows. As the most available local climbers, Dave Henritze and I were called in by the Rangers to aid in the body retrieval of a hapless soul who gravely underestimated the seriousness of the "Leisure" climb. He had gotten off route by going straight up the crack to the roof. The same variation several posts on this thread have mentioned. "I can taste the beer already" were his last words after winning the argument with his partner over route direction. Falling off at the sketchy roof he pulled all of his ill placed gear and cratered below his belayer. Neither Dave or I were enthralled with the idea of "body bagging" as neither of us were rescue team "regulars". But we both felt compelled to bring a fallen kindred home. At the last moment our plan to climb up, lower off and facilitate a helicopter pick up was bullied out of the way by the R.M.R. team and their prized cable wench system. We spent the rest of a decidedly Un-leisurely day sitting with the head ranger watching in horror as this system consisting of joined 150' lengths of 1/4" cable with no backup system lowered a stokes and two rescuers to the dead climber. On the way down they dislodged several enormous blocks that exploded all around the already mangled body. Thankfully, none of them were direct hits. On the way up the over loaded winch struggled, getting stuck under roofs and on flakes. Aghast we watched the rescuers repeatedly climb into the stokes and all over the corpse in an effort to kick the rig free. What would have taken us only a few hours of unpleasant duty ended up taking the entire day well into the bleak evening. The scene is still a ragged ugly memory for me. I could never get over the thought that this body bag/door mat had once been a living vibrant person, someone's child, someone's friend. Sorry if this recounting disturbes anyones' sensibilities or hubris but IMHO it is important to understand that there is nothing "casual" or "leisurely" down there, IT'S DESPERATE IN THE BLACK! Respectfully Phil Broscovak Aug 25, 2004
[Hide Comment] I agree with Phil. This route is one of the few that is not worth it in my opinion. Besides being really crappy after the third pitch all the way to the top, the belay at the top of the second pitch is big broken flakes that are gonna go eventually, and then the third pitch itself is dangerous and the crux. Don't be fooled by some kind of "ooh, it's dangerous, sounds spicey, I should do it". The route is dangerous in a very un-sexy sort of way. Big loose blocks and sand on easy terrain and dicey pro on one 5.9 move. Aug 25, 2004
[Hide Comment] I'd have trouble rating any climb in the Black a bomb. It's just a cool place to be. I was entertained by this route and I've done a bunch of the classics.It's always good to test your mettle on loose rock and funky route finding. With that said , I wouldn't do this route again but all the same it wasn't a horrible experience. It was an entertaining adventure. Aug 25, 2004
[Hide Comment] I only give this route two stars to help mitigate the "bomb" ratings by some. No, it is not as nice as Maiden Voyage, but it is on good rock the whole way and the crux is really cool face climbing. The second pitch cracks are nice, steep, and easy. The crux is not as bad as people make it out to be. There are two decent placements right at the lip of the roof that can be equalized if you want. You can get a 3" piece in a small horizontal and a silver Metolius just left of it. You can't miss the placement, it is a chalked up triangular hold right in your chest as you go over the roof. Once you pull the roof, there is no way you are going to fall from the easy climbng above. Oct 20, 2004
Lordsokol
Cannon Beach, OR
  5.9+
[Hide Comment] I climbed this route with Phil Wortman two days ago. I had a good time on it. I lead the first two pitches as one on a 60m rope. That first lead was completely worthy of the name of the route. This pitch was a very enjoyable 5.8 crack climb in the beautiful Black. Above that, Phil lead the "crux" pitch. He hated it. Following it wasn't too bad though. After the third pitch, we did the nice face climbing above and instead of moving right and going up the loose gully, I lead up the fourth pitch of Midsummer Night's Dream. The book calls it 5.10- but it felt like hard 5.10.. maybe 5.10d (could've been a little off route - relatively speaking) Anyway, after this pitch we got back "on route" and finished on the last pitch or so of Leisure Climb to top out on the rim. This particular variation (the 4th pitch of Midsummer's) made this a very interesting and enjoyable climb. May 22, 2006
Chris Perkins
vicenza, IT
  5.9
[Hide Comment] I didn't take the time to read all the comments above, but a great variation is to climb the first two pitches of Leisure, then traverse left to the third pitch of Midsummer's, and finish on Sex Comedy. Super fun!
CP Aug 29, 2007
RyanO
sunshine
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] I disagree with a lot of these comments. The route really wasn't that bad, it was actually pretty fun. We got in at 3 in the afternoon and were going to try Maiden Voyage, but settled on this because it was in the shade. My partner led the first pitch, and she was very unhappy about the bagginess of her #4 C4 for a good 15 feet or so, but then the offwidth went back to hands and it was cruiser to the top of the pitch. Second pitch was fun, strenuous thin hands 5.8. Third pitch is runout on low 5th class terrain for about 20/30 feet from the belay, then it's really well protected (with lots of fixed gear) from there. Seriously, the crux is not run out! It's not 5.9 either. We simuled the long bushy dihedral/chimney to the forested ledge, and that was fun too - lots of pretty purple crystals to look at :) I would definitely recommend this as a nice shady afternoon romp on a hot day, though midsummer is a lot better ;) Jun 12, 2012
[Hide Comment] Leisure - Summer. First route in The Black for visiting Brits. Nice and shady in the afternoon when it was 95F.
Trip report here: rockaroundtheworld.co.uk/20…. Sep 7, 2019
F r i t z
North Mitten
 
[Hide Comment] The mental crux can be bypassed by traversing left into the excellent 5.9 roofs pitch on Midsummer. May 31, 2020