Type: |
Trad, Sport, 2 pitches
Fixed Hardware
(6) |
FA: | Ed Webster, Bill Feiges, Leondard Coyne, 1979 |
Page Views: | 11,726 total · 41/month |
Shared By: | David Benson on May 26, 2001 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted
Details
Update: as of 6/7/23 per Mike McHugh, ECSP: all closures have been lifted within Eldorado Canyon State Park, including Continental Crag.
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Description
Rossiter gives this route an S rating and I disagree. The bolts are far by Sport Park standards, but the climbing isn't dangerous. Rossiter grades the route as 11b, but this pitch is considerably harder than either Aerohead or Aeronaut which are both graded 11b as well.
Start in the dihedral just to the right of Over the Hill.
P1. Climb up the corner about 20' and move right below a flake. Make a tricky move around the corner and clip the first bolt. Continue up the arete, the crux is near the third bolt. After the fourth bolt you can either swing back to the face or (as I did) traverse right across one flake into a large, left-facing flake. Pull over this flake and then move back left around the arete. Traverse left to a hand crack, then traverse up and right. Belay below the roof.
P2. We continued on Aerohead, but there is a second pitch. Pitch 1 and 2 may be combined for one long lead.
Start in the dihedral just to the right of Over the Hill.
P1. Climb up the corner about 20' and move right below a flake. Make a tricky move around the corner and clip the first bolt. Continue up the arete, the crux is near the third bolt. After the fourth bolt you can either swing back to the face or (as I did) traverse right across one flake into a large, left-facing flake. Pull over this flake and then move back left around the arete. Traverse left to a hand crack, then traverse up and right. Belay below the roof.
P2. We continued on Aerohead, but there is a second pitch. Pitch 1 and 2 may be combined for one long lead.
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