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Comanche Warrior
5.11c,
Sport, 2 pitches,
Avg: 2.3 from 16
votes
FA: Richard Wright, Anna Brandenburg-Schroeder, 2001
Colorado
> Lyons
> St Vrain Canyons
> S Fork of St Vr…
> Scout Rock
Access Issue: MM 23-29.5 - now ended daily CO 7 highway closure/delays
Details
Per Kai Bouwman: the daily CO 7 highway closure/delay access issue is no longer a problem according to CDOT the construction finished as of Nov. 11, 2022. From CDOT: Colorado Highway 7 is closed daily from MP 23-29.5. Motorists can only travel through the area between 6-8 am and 4-7 pm. During these timeframes, pilot cars will lead alternating one-way travel. Drivers should plan for delays, and this schedule will remain in place through Memorial Day 2022.
During the closure, motorists need to take US 36 to CO 7.
codot.gov/projects/co7-lyon…
Description
Comanche Warrior has already seen a bunch of ascents, and that is the reason for putting it up here. The route starts in the West-facing corner system of Scout Rock and takes the headwall flake left of
War Path. Comanche Warrior can be done in a single long pitch or as two short pitches.
P1. The first pitch is 5.9 and on excellent stone. It is a little tricky but good fun. It might seem nice to link with the second pitch, but after running it again, it still seemed better to break it up into two pitches just to keep the rope running well. If you bring some slings, instead of using just quickdraws, the link-up should be okay.
P2. The second pitch ticks in at hardish 5.11 or perhaps a tad easier. It has cleaned up nicely and climbs on very good stone. The traverse is largely obvious, but it does need some careful foot work as you cut right.
Protection
Two pitches with QDs for both. The route can be done as a single 85 foot line or as two 40 -50 foot pitches. Four QDs on the first are needed; seven on the second. Each pitch has a double bolt anchor at the top.
![Bruce Hildenbrand at the crux of the first pitch.]()
[Hide Photo] Bruce Hildenbrand at the crux of the first pitch.
![The upper half of the rock. Comanche follows the dihedral on the left, and War Path pulls up the flake on the right.]()
[Hide Photo] The upper half of the rock. Comanche follows the dihedral on the left, and War Path pulls up the flake on the right.
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Ridgway, CO
Ridgway, CO
Now the route is open for business. See the attached photo when it uploads.
11d, maybe 12a. If you work your way up the chimney, the crux is 1 move with 1 or 2 11ish moves following. Tricky body tension to avoid a barndoor, then two powerful moves to jugs. Felt a liitle harder with a 10 lb rock in my right hand! May 3, 2004
Boulder, CO
There are 3 different grades for this route: 5.9, 5.10c/d, 5.12-. All of them are right... depending on your point of view. The description of the route was created with a 5.9 grade before the whole route was complete. The 5.9 only applies to the first pitch. The consensus reflects both pitches which Matt Juth says goes at 5.12a - put the 3 grades listed together and you get 5.10c/d (this is the most misleading grade of the 3). This was not clear to me and my partner when we decided to give it a go.
It's a nice route and certainly worth doing. I didn't get through the crux and will need to work it some more. Dividing the 85' route into 2 pitches is not necessary. Just bring enough draws and enjoy the good rest before the crux. Also taping your hands would be helpful for the beautiful, but cheese grater like hand jam off the belay (of the first pitch) below the crux. Nov 15, 2006
Loveland, CO
Around Boulder, CO
Long arm-span probably helped, and shorter people will suffer a harder crux. Apr 5, 2012
Lakewood, CO
Around Boulder, CO
I thought it easier than Hunting Party or Broken Arrow.
These are good routes, BTW - thanks for equipping those. Apr 6, 2012
Lakewood, CO