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Routes in The Pages Wall Area
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44, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Box, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Cheap Date T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Corner Pump Station T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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El Camino Real T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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El Pump Real T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Fat City Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Final Chapter, The T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Frisky Puppies T,S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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George's Tree T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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High Plains Drifter T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Howling at the Wind T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Interceptor T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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M.I.C. Exit [aka Parable of the Cave] T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Midway T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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New Music T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R |
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Osiris T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Outlander T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Perelandra T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Pseudo Wallet Eater T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Stepped On T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Toot T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Wolfie and the Scientist T,TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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| Type: | Trad, 4 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | FA: George Hurley, Steve Pomerance, 1960s (5.7 A2) |
| Page Views: | 11,415 total · 39/month |
| Shared By: | Patrick Vernon on Dec 31, 2000 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: 2024 Partial Seasonal Raptor Closures lifted 7/21/24
Details
From the Denver Post 7/21/24: some of the raptor closures have been lifted, officials announced.
Upper & Lower Twin Owls, Rock One, The Book and access trail, Bookmark, and Left Book were opened based on a park new release.
Closures have been extended for Thunder Buttress, access trail, The Parish, Cathedral Wall.
Closures above the Loch Vale-Sky Pond trail have been extended.
Per Brent Frazier: the raptor closures have been lifted in the Lumpy Ridge and Loch Vale Areas ( nps.gov/romo/raptor-closure…)
Each year, Rocky Mountain National Park initiates temporary closures in certain areas of the park to ensure that birds of prey will be undisturbed during their breeding and nesting seasons. These closures begin on February 15 and continue through July 31, if appropriate. Monitoring by park staff and volunteers have determined that all remaining closures can be lifted on July 28, 2023.
Per Matt Coghill: the Golden eagle nesting activity has extended Lumpy closures through Aug. 15, 2022 on Sundance, Thunder Buttress, and Needle Summit!
Per A.Eaton: the raptor closures have been lifted as of 6/4/2022 at Lumpy for the following formations:
Twin Owls
Rock One
Batman Rock
Batman Pinnacle
Checkerboard
Lightning Rock
Per the Denver Post: as of Feb. 15, 2022, Checkerboard Rock, Lightning Rock, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sundance, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Bookmark Pinnacle, The Left Book, Bookmark, Twin Owls, Rock One, and the Needle are closed for raptor nesting. These closures will continue through July 31, 2022 if needed.
All areas [were] OPEN to climbing for the 2021 post July season.
Closures ending July 31:
Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Lightning Rock, Checkerboard Rock - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Sundance - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
The Book Area: Left Book, The Bookmark, Bookmark Pinnacle, and the entire Book formation (including Renaissance Wall, Isis Buttress, Pages Wall Area, and J-Crack Slab Area)- nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Thunder Buttress and The Parish - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Twin Owls and Rock One - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Cathedral Wall - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
When closed, the closures include the named rock formations and the areas surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes, and climber's access trails to the formation.
Areas not listed are presumed to be open. These closures will be lifted or extended as conditions dictate.
Upper & Lower Twin Owls, Rock One, The Book and access trail, Bookmark, and Left Book were opened based on a park new release.
Closures have been extended for Thunder Buttress, access trail, The Parish, Cathedral Wall.
Closures above the Loch Vale-Sky Pond trail have been extended.
Per Brent Frazier: the raptor closures have been lifted in the Lumpy Ridge and Loch Vale Areas ( nps.gov/romo/raptor-closure…)
Each year, Rocky Mountain National Park initiates temporary closures in certain areas of the park to ensure that birds of prey will be undisturbed during their breeding and nesting seasons. These closures begin on February 15 and continue through July 31, if appropriate. Monitoring by park staff and volunteers have determined that all remaining closures can be lifted on July 28, 2023.
Per Matt Coghill: the Golden eagle nesting activity has extended Lumpy closures through Aug. 15, 2022 on Sundance, Thunder Buttress, and Needle Summit!
Per A.Eaton: the raptor closures have been lifted as of 6/4/2022 at Lumpy for the following formations:
Twin Owls
Rock One
Batman Rock
Batman Pinnacle
Checkerboard
Lightning Rock
Per the Denver Post: as of Feb. 15, 2022, Checkerboard Rock, Lightning Rock, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sundance, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Bookmark Pinnacle, The Left Book, Bookmark, Twin Owls, Rock One, and the Needle are closed for raptor nesting. These closures will continue through July 31, 2022 if needed.
All areas [were] OPEN to climbing for the 2021 post July season.
Closures ending July 31:
Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Lightning Rock, Checkerboard Rock - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Sundance - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
The Book Area: Left Book, The Bookmark, Bookmark Pinnacle, and the entire Book formation (including Renaissance Wall, Isis Buttress, Pages Wall Area, and J-Crack Slab Area)- nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Thunder Buttress and The Parish - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Twin Owls and Rock One - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Cathedral Wall - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
When closed, the closures include the named rock formations and the areas surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes, and climber's access trails to the formation.
Areas not listed are presumed to be open. These closures will be lifted or extended as conditions dictate.
Description
I've only done the first pitch of this route. If you feel solid on 5.9 and have never climbed at Lumpy, this is a good route to do, it is your standard Lumpy weirdness.
P1. This pitch begins 100 feet or so to the left of Fat City. It is a clean, low-angle, flared crack in a blank slab, just right of an area of many pronounced grooves. It leads to a two bolt anchor less than half a rope-length up feet up (and continues above). This crack appears easy from down below, but it is probably one of the hardest 5.9 pitches you will ever do. The crack is flared, insecure, and sustained the whole way to the anchor. There is also an awesome .12a face climb 20 feet to the right of it of that can be toproped from the anchors on George's Tree. The crux is 20 feet up, but the face remains solid 5.10 and 5.11 the whole way up. These two routes are great for developing slab technique. ~140'.
Addendum:
On the first pitch above the 2 bolt anchor, it gets steeper.
P2. leads up more cracks. ~60'.
Var. A note on the variation on the 2nd pitch (5.10c). This line goes up and to the right at the top of the P1, up a right-facing, thin corner and heads back left after the crux slabby bulge, joining the original line above. Take a good handful of micronuts to protect this one. Very thin and balancy.
P3. another pitch up good cracks leads to the ledge 2/3s up the wall. ~130'.
P4. follow the most obvious cracks to the top. This was probably the crux. ~ 160'.
Eds. we were told that the tree fell down in 2014.
P1. This pitch begins 100 feet or so to the left of Fat City. It is a clean, low-angle, flared crack in a blank slab, just right of an area of many pronounced grooves. It leads to a two bolt anchor less than half a rope-length up feet up (and continues above). This crack appears easy from down below, but it is probably one of the hardest 5.9 pitches you will ever do. The crack is flared, insecure, and sustained the whole way to the anchor. There is also an awesome .12a face climb 20 feet to the right of it of that can be toproped from the anchors on George's Tree. The crux is 20 feet up, but the face remains solid 5.10 and 5.11 the whole way up. These two routes are great for developing slab technique. ~140'.
Addendum:
On the first pitch above the 2 bolt anchor, it gets steeper.
P2. leads up more cracks. ~60'.
Var. A note on the variation on the 2nd pitch (5.10c). This line goes up and to the right at the top of the P1, up a right-facing, thin corner and heads back left after the crux slabby bulge, joining the original line above. Take a good handful of micronuts to protect this one. Very thin and balancy.
P3. another pitch up good cracks leads to the ledge 2/3s up the wall. ~130'.
P4. follow the most obvious cracks to the top. This was probably the crux. ~ 160'.
Eds. we were told that the tree fell down in 2014.
Photos
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