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Hands In The Clouds
5.12a YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British A0
Avg: 3.9 from 30
votes
Routes in Redgarden - Roof Routes
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(Total) Psycho! T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c A1- |
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Blue Steel T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R |
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Canary Corner Extension T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Clear the Deck T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c X |
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Clever Lever S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Dangerous Acquaintances T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a X |
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Downpressor Man S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Evangeline S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c A1 |
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Fire and Ice T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13 |
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Gem, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Guardian Saint T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Guen-Ice T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Guenese T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Hands In The Clouds T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a A0 |
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Huck Off T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Kloeberdanz T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R |
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Kloeberdeath/Candallegro T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Last Rite T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Le Toit T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Le Toit Direct T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R |
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Le Verne T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Lipsync T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Mean Lean T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R |
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Private Idaho S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Psycho S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Rosy Toit T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Scary Canary T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R |
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Temporary Like Achilles T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Trippin T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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Tubesock Tanline T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R |
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Wasabe S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Wasabeline S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Wisdom, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R |
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| Type: |
Trad, Sport, Aid
Fixed Hardware
(1) |
| FA: | Mark and Scott Tarrant, 1987 |
| Page Views: | 6,228 total · 22/month |
| Shared By: | Richard M. Wright on Apr 30, 2001 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Rockfall Access Effect & Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
Per Dustin Bergman, Eldorado Canyon State Park Officer: the upper third of the West Redgarden trail and Rewritten descent trail suffered significant damage during that storm that came through a few weeks ago. Please consider choosing alternates routes lower on the trail.
Beginning Feb. 1st each year, a seasonal wildlife closure will be in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyons falcons. The closure is in effect through July 31st unless lifted early due to early fledging or inactivity.
The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/pre…
Beginning Feb. 1st each year, a seasonal wildlife closure will be in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyons falcons. The closure is in effect through July 31st unless lifted early due to early fledging or inactivity.
The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/pre…
Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted
Details
Update: as of 6/7/23 per Mike McHugh, ECSP: all closures have been lifted within Eldorado Canyon State Park, including Continental Crag.
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Description
Hands In The Clouds is another fine addition to the Eldorado hit list by Mark Tarrant. The climbing in Hands in The Clouds begins either with the Temporary Like Achilles slab off the ground or at the double bolt anchor above the Achilles roof. The roof itself was freed by Jerry Moffat [Eds. Ben Moon?] close to ten years ago at 5.13d and can be done nicely at A0. Logically, the Moffat ascent should constitute the real end of Achilles and not the start of Hands. Wander largely leftward up the broad Psycho slab for 2 or 3 airy clips and small, tricky feet. This is followed by a cruxy move (5.12a) over a small overhang and more vertical face climbing that moves left again for a bolt. Friends and nuts protect a right facing corner and some spacey climbing to a double bolt anchor. I thought that there were two 5.12 cruxes and a lot of 5.11 style face climbing. The climbing on Hands is typical Eldo: spacey gear, a tad tough to fish it all in, and some "Eldo-weirdo" moves. (NB: Mark has indicated that one additional bolt was added to the face crux since Hands went in 1987) Three stars for great climbing, exposure, and perfect (albeit weird) Eldo sandstone. This is another classic route in the Eldorado pantheon.
Protection
Half a dozen QD, several small camming units, and a fist full of stoppers. Double ropes willl touch the ground from the Clouds anchor. Otherwise, two raps with a 60m rope. Just above the Temporary Like Achilles roof is a double bolt anchor.
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