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Blue Sky Mining

5.11d, Sport, 85 ft (26 m),  Avg: 2.8 from 75 votes
FA: Alan Nelson, 1995
Colorado > Golden > Clear Creek Canyon > Highlands aka Highlander
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Description

Blue Sky Mining is the first route to the right of Learning to Crawl. The climbing begins up a steep, short wall that is immediately "in your face" with an awkward 5.11 move. With this little unpleasantness out of the way, the route settles down to some fun 5.11 face climbing. Head for the grey roof and block system above for the supremely well protected 5.11d crux. Slip to the right over the roof and jog back left to the face, a clip or so and the anchors.

Two stars for the high quality rock, the continuity, and the climbing moves. The early crux, right off the deck, can be negotiated on some very thin fingers with a small jog left.

Protection

QDs only. This 85 foot route needs 11 or 12 draws and something for the double bolt anchor at the top.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Heidi, walking it home.
[Hide Photo] Heidi, walking it home.
Heidi setting up for the crux roof.
[Hide Photo] Heidi setting up for the crux roof.
Heidi dancing past the crux with supple ease.
[Hide Photo] Heidi dancing past the crux with supple ease.
Heidi Badaracco cruising through the slabs below crux roof system.
[Hide Photo] Heidi Badaracco cruising through the slabs below crux roof system.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

John Kelley
Sedona, AZ
[Hide Comment] Nice route, begins with a fun bouldery start to a ledge (good, flat landing). Not a bad idea to give the leader a spot til the first bolt. Noticed a very chalked, creaky/loose block to the climbers left, before the crux roof. It can be avoided by using other holds, but be mindful of standing on it moving through the roof. Woman in the photos makes it look much more pretty than I did.... Mar 21, 2005
Rico
Aurora, CO
 
[Hide Comment] Interesting route and moves. It's basically like 5 boulder problems stacked on top of each other. You get a no hands rest after each one. Jan 20, 2009
Top Rope Hero
Was Estes Park, now homeless
 
[Hide Comment] Oh My Jesus, what a climb. Stiff city, and you'd better have your crimp strength down for the crux roof thrutching.

FAIR WARNING: the hellish mantle move (B3 and 4?). I've seen a guy pitch before making the thank-the-Jesus clip over the roof and snap an ankle. So heads up.

AS FOR THE FLAKE...the heavily chalked horn just below the roof that moves more than a mamba dancer. I've seen people hang Cadillac off that sucka, and I've yarded on it myself (both as a handhold and as a foothold). Loose or not, I'm not sure that thing is ever going to pop out in our lifetime. But DO let your belayer know to stand to the side. Apr 26, 2010
[Hide Comment] B3 and 4? What are you talking about? Jan 2, 2012
[Hide Comment] I am guessing 3rd and 4th bolts. Jan 6, 2012
Phil Lauffen
Innsbruck, AT
[Hide Comment] Poorly bolted route that poses a risk for injury at the start. Jan 21, 2012
drewhouser
  5.11c
[Hide Comment] If it wasn't for that first silly bolt, this would get 4 stars from me. Beta intensive with great movement, this thing will feel hard your first go, but as she reveals the passage through each Boulder problem, you realize there is nothing more than V3 on this beautiful route. As for this climb being dangerous...dangling from the great ledge just above bolt one your feet are 2 ft off the ground, hardly what I would call high balling. Add a flat landing to that, and you have a very safe start. Also you can clip bolt 4 before having to do any of the committing moves. This eliminates any possibilities for a "snapped ankle". This climb is so good I would hate for people to miss it due to these above comments about it being dangerous. Nov 23, 2014
Dwight Jugornot
Arvada, Co.
 
[Hide Comment] Not very dangerous but - the first bolt calls for a spotter. The rest of the route is well-protected but mildly heady. It felt harder than 11d to me. The 3 ft. wide flake seems solid, and it helps a lot. Not near as good as "not one of us". Nov 22, 2015
Chad Elliott
Denver
 
[Hide Comment] Every route we did including this one at Highlander had clipping stances that I was completely maxed out on with a scary fall waiting (I'm 5'8"). This route in particular had pretty rusted bolts and anchors. I am worried about the condition of them inside the rock.

Although I have no experience, I would be happy to help someone rebolt/repair this and other climbs. Oct 31, 2016
Jay Samuelson
Colorado
  5.11+
[Hide Comment] Hey Chad, all rebolting efforts are now managed by Jefferson County Open Space. You can find their rules and regulations regarding replacing hardware on this jeffco.us/open-space/activi… page, and you can download their guidelines as well as an application to replace hardware there as well.

You can email them here. Nov 1, 2016
Chad Elliott
Denver
 
[Hide Comment] Jay, thanks for the quick response! I actually just attended the public meeting they had this past Wednesday. I'm excited to help however I can! Nov 18, 2016