PRINT: Rock Climb Gollum's Arch, Lumpy Ridge

Gollum's Arch

5.10b, Trad, 160 ft (48 m),

Avg: 3.5 from 56 votes
FA: Duncan Ferguson & Dudley Chelton, 1970s
Colorado > Estes Park Valley > Lumpy Ridge > Gollum's Arch Rock

Access Issue: 2024 Partial Seasonal Raptor Closures lifted 7/21/24 Details

From the Denver Post 7/21/24: some of the raptor closures have been lifted, officials announced.

Upper & Lower Twin Owls, Rock One, The Book and access trail, Bookmark, and Left Book were opened based on a park new release.

Closures have been extended for Thunder Buttress, access trail, The Parish, Cathedral Wall.

Closures above the Loch Vale-Sky Pond trail have been extended.

Per Brent Frazier: the raptor closures have been lifted in the Lumpy Ridge and Loch Vale Areas ( nps.gov/romo/raptor-closure…)

Each year, Rocky Mountain National Park initiates temporary closures in certain areas of the park to ensure that birds of prey will be undisturbed during their breeding and nesting seasons. These closures begin on February 15 and continue through July 31, if appropriate. Monitoring by park staff and volunteers have determined that all remaining closures can be lifted on July 28, 2023.

Per Matt Coghill: the Golden eagle nesting activity has extended Lumpy closures through Aug. 15, 2022 on Sundance, Thunder Buttress, and Needle Summit!

Per A.Eaton: the raptor closures have been lifted as of 6/4/2022 at Lumpy for the following formations:

Twin Owls
Rock One
Batman Rock
Batman Pinnacle
Checkerboard
Lightning Rock

Per the Denver Post: as of Feb. 15, 2022, Checkerboard Rock, Lightning Rock, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sundance, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Bookmark Pinnacle, The Left Book, Bookmark, Twin Owls, Rock One, and the Needle are closed for raptor nesting. These closures will continue through July 31, 2022 if needed.

All areas [were] OPEN to climbing for the 2021 post July season.

Closures ending July 31:
Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Lightning Rock, Checkerboard Rock - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Sundance - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
The Book Area: Left Book, The Bookmark, Bookmark Pinnacle, and the entire Book formation (including Renaissance Wall, Isis Buttress, Pages Wall Area, and J-Crack Slab Area)- nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Thunder Buttress and The Parish - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Twin Owls and Rock One - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Cathedral Wall - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…

When closed, the closures include the named rock formations and the areas surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes, and climber's access trails to the formation.

Areas not listed are presumed to be open. These closures will be lifted or extended as conditions dictate.

Description

This route is not on [Twin Owls]. It lies on [Gollum's] Rock which is directly east of Twin Owls. This is a smaller cliff about one hundred feet high. Approach as though going to Hen and Chickens Rock and when next to that cliff look east 100 yards to find an hundred foot left-arching, aesthetic crack, this is the route.

This is a great one pitch crack climb that begins with a 5.9 fist crack through a bulge then widens considerably for thirty feet. This section doesn't require any offwidth technique as there are [decent] face holds around. After the wide section, the crack narrows down through all the sizes to fingers at the end. At the end, either traverse left to a belay, or continue over a poorly protected 5.9 roof.

This is a very sustained pitch with no single crux. It is given .10a in most guides, but feels [definitely] harder.

Protection

This crack goes through several sizes, bring a couple #3 Camalots, and at least two #4 Camalots to supplement a standard rack.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Stemming it wide.

At the crux. A shorter climber wouldn't be able to get into this stem.

The climbing is relatively easy at the wide part of the crack so you'll probably be leap-frogging and sliding up the big cams, even if you have a lot. (Photo by Ivan Rezucha)

Just below the crux, the crack narrows so you can place something small enough for a blue Camalot or smaller gear. I got a blue in about 10 feet below this but nearly arm's length into the crack. (…

Harder than it looks!

Douglas in the middle of the photo...middle of the climb!

Slimy day for Gollum.

Douglas S. kickin it!

This stem feels awful good when you get it and there are one or two more as you head up. (Photo by Ivan Rezucha)

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Mike Sofranko

I don't think I'd upgrade this route. 10- seemed about right for me. Lots of face holds on the lower part. I thought the crux was where the face holds run out and you have a few wider (very deep hand jams) moves before you can start working the stem. I thought the roof protected fine - save a hand sized pieces and a 2 foot runner for the horizontal crack under it. I exited right and it was really only one move of 9. Jul 30, 2001

S. Kimball

It's a crack dudes, jam it! Still 5.10- in my book. Bring plenty of big stuff,and you can get enought pro at the 5.8 exit roof to lower off a Cadillac. S.Kimball. Jun 18, 2002

Dan St John
Castle Rock

Well, climbed it and loved it except for the fact I only took doubles in the big hands. Here is what you will need to place gear every 6-12 feet. (2/3)#4, 4#3, 2#2, 1#1, 1#.75 Camalots. Be sure to save one #3 for the roof. Placed some smaller Aliens before the traversing out on the face to attack the roof, which looked intimidation but turns out to be a pussy cat. Aug 5, 2002

Renny Glover

10 b/c? I don't think so. I did this route in 1987, and I found it to be 5.9+. The roof and lack of protection at it are over-rated. Don't get me wrong, it's a nice route, but no where near as hard as the author is rating it here. Sep 30, 2003

Terry Gill
Boulder

Ratings are a mysterious thing. I did this route earlier this year and flailed at the crux, hanging, [grovelling] and finally lowering. The same summer I waltzed up the Nose on Sundance, Xanadu and another 10 at Eldo last weekend. If the climb is not hard 10 as described here, I just didn't get it. Sep 30, 2003

Old Fart aka Dave Bohn

5.10a

So what Renny, I did this in '76, and I think the grade holds through. An excellent route and don't be afraid of the roof. If you can make it that far, you've got the guns to pull it no problem (I thought the roof was 5.8). Enjoy ! Sep 30, 2003

Renny Glover

Old fart, my criticism is of the 10b/c rating given by the author, and his assessment of the difficulties and protection at the roof. Now we all know ratings are subjective. Look at it this way. This route is 10b/c, and Crack of Fear is rated 10d? No way. Both these routes are mis-rated. When you did this route in '76 you climbed it without active camming devices. Hanging around that much longer to get good pro, yes, I'd call it 10a then. As I said before, it's a nice route. I'm not trying to belittle it. Oct 1, 2003

Lizzy Scully
Mancos, CO

Perhaps I am a wuss or a terrible offwidth climber, but I got on this route expecting 10a, and it felt harder. I definitely would not recommend a new 10a leader get on it. Jul 17, 2008

Q B
Estes Park

Lizzy, I totally agree.
Douglas and I went out to do this...fat...slimy..and awkward for me. I would not recommend as an "moderate" climb for anyone who has smaller hands. Either that or my technique is just piss poor!
Scottie, it's only cause you've climbed it a billion times...it reminds me of your Jamesia Jam. HARD! Nov 19, 2008

tooTALLtim
Vanlife

5.10-

The roof move (5.8) is easily protected by a #2, #3, #3.5, hell, make an anchor below it, then pull it. You already did the hard stuff.

I could see this being argued to be 5.9+, but you old guys have way better crack technique than us youngins. 5.10- is appropriate. Jul 10, 2009

Lenore Sparks
Bishop, CA

This climb is like a super hot valley girl-- it has outer beauty, but inner beauty is arguable. The guide says 'it's a nice line' which is like saying your girlfriend is hot, but.... Aug 14, 2009

Allen Hill
FIve Points, Colorado and Pine

I've climbed this route at least five times. It's fantastic! Dec 18, 2009

Guy H.
Fort Collins CO

5.10b/c

5-6 cams around a #4 FR to #4 C4 would not go unplaced on the first half of the route. I am guessing that #3 Camalots could be placed nearby with some effort.

There are currently some slings at the top. A single 70m rope will get you down to an easy downclimb. Sep 21, 2010

NickinCO
colorado

Any use for a #5 or #6 C4? I'm coming out the beginning of next month, and we plan on doing this route. Probably won't do anything else wide, so I'm not going to bring them if I don't need them. I'm not super confident at the grade, only other off-width I've done is Huston Crack in Boulder Canyon. Sep 7, 2011

Guy H.
Fort Collins CO

5.10b/c

There is no need for the #5/6 C4. A few #4s would be handy though. Sep 7, 2011

YDPL8S
Santa Monica, Ca.

I just read that Bachar solo'd this, wow! That guy was amazing, RIP Oct 12, 2012

Cocanower
The High Country

Freakin' sweet climb. Got confused and saved the wrong gear for the roof. #4.5 definitely does not fit! HAHA. Aug 24, 2014

Mtn Cat
Denver, CO

There's a two bolt anchor above the roof that lets you get down with a 70m. I brought a #5 and found multiple places it could be placed. Having some nuts and/or finger-size cams is nice for the top of the crack. Not sure why the roof above the crack is described as poorly protected, you can get multiple pieces in that will be at your hip when pulling it (and the roof felt like the easiest part of the climb). Oct 4, 2023

Buster Jesik
Estes Park, CO

One way to save some gear is to bring a cordallette or quad length sling to tie off the flake / horn about 20 feet up. Oct 14, 2023